Showing posts with label Paris. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Paris. Show all posts

Tuesday, October 23, 2007

Postcards from Paris, another first!

One of the things that has really improved since I first came to Paris in the 70's is the public bathrooms. Back then, 'pissoirs', outdoor urinals, were the preferred venue for Parisian men (I don't know what women did). They were large, round, dark green, steel contraptions not unlike the familiar round advertising locations common now, only larger. Men (up to 10 at a time) would enter and pee against the center wall and it would drain to the sewer. Bathrooms in Cafes were co-ed and featured urinals along one wall and commodes along the other for men and women. Less elegant locations would have neither urinals nor toilets, but rather co-ed 'squatters 'with two raised footprints in the center of a tiled drain.

Today, public bathrooms in Paris are a joy, located in every cafe, restaurant and public facility. There are also high-tech pay toilets located on busy streets. These are well designed commodes that self-clean and disinfect after every use. There's also a mechanism which causes the doors to fly open after a respectable time period. They've been in use for about 5 years and NYC recently agreed to purchase a number of them for use in Manhattan.

As one of his first initiatives, the new Mayor of Paris made all city museums and pay toilets free of charge. This does not include the major museums that are national. To date, we had enjoyed the free museums, but not the toilets. I'm happy to report that they are not to be shunned

- they are clean and well equipped with toilet paper, towels and running water. This is probably more then you ever wanted to know about this topic, but suffice it to say that any remaining hesitations about coming to Paris should now be eliminated.

Friday, October 19, 2007

Postcards from Paris #3


We're eating at home tonight after visiting a great exhibition at the Centre Pompidou all about the sculptor and painter "Giacometti". It was wonderful with over 100 pieces of work beginning with his earliest painting at age 15. You'll recongnize him as the artist who did "Walking Man"--tall skinny sculpted figures that have a 'pinched' look to them. It was particularly interesting as we thought his work was familiar to us but found he had evolved significantlym over the years. He had even been briefly part of the Surrealists, but they threw him out after a few years for unspecified reasons - maybe his work was understandable!
Walking home along rue Rambuteau, we picked out goodies for the evening meal which included stuffed bread and little calimari from an Italians place, pate and some cold salads from the French place and then of course there was the usual cheese, wine and chocolate to round things off!
Yum, wish you were here, Chris and Paul

Thursday, October 18, 2007

A Postcard from Paris

A postcard from Paris . . .

I took a French cooking class with Scott and Jory/ We enjoyed experimenting with new ingredients we bought at a local market. The result, at the end of a morning in the kitchen with 'chef Eric,' was a sumptuous lunch of sauteed shrimp on ratatouille and winter veal stew. We finished with cheese and a molten chocolate cake (served with a "surprise" sauce of banana and avocado). All were served with the appropriate wine. All in all a fine morning! Paul was happy to be invited to share the meal even though he did not participate in the preparation.

Wish you all could have been there,

Postcards from Paris

Postcards from Paris: An Unusual Visitation. . .

Christina and Christine went to visit Pere Lachaise Cemetery this week where the line-up of illustrious corpses date back to the 1700's! Here lie Proust, Oscar Wilde, Edith Piaf, and almost anyone French, talented and DEAD that you can think of. They don't discriminate against creed or nationality but space is now at a premium, in fact since 2003 they have introduced 10, 30, and 50 year leases. If you have an existing lease, it buys you about a century and those in 'perpetuelles' may stay until abandoned. Of the one million originally buried here, approximately 200 thousand remain--now that's a lot of souls!

The grounds are beautiful, and you need a minimum of half a day here. Here's just a little snap shot of some of the gravestones we found interesting.

Tuesday, October 16, 2007

Ooh la la

We have never visited Reims, the Champagne region, just outside of Paris. So we decided that it would be a perfect trip to take when Scott and Jory joined us in Paris this year. Several people had recommended a particular chateau that offered a one day, all inclusive lunch with a champagne tasting menu and a visit to Veuve Cliquot, our favourite 'cave'. Sounds perfect--right????

The day started badly... We had to leave the house at 8:30 am to catch the train. That was aggressive planning on Chris's part since Scott and Jory were still somewhat jet-lagged and not not stirring before noon. I'm normally grumpy about doing anything before I've read the paper. The short train ride put us in Reims at about 9:45 am, giving us what Chris said, would be enough time to explore the city before the designated pick-up by the Chateau. I had been thinking about our visit to Burgundy and the lovely little towns like St. Emilion that we enjoyed so much. Unfortunately, Reims is more New Haven than St. Emilion. As we headed out from the station, Chris was looking for the Cathedral, I was looking for a nice Cafe or tea house for breakfast; Scott and Jory were just groggily following along -- we were hopeful! Quel domage! We were too cold to walk all the way to the cathedral and didn't have enough time to visit the town and still satisfy the need for coffee so..... we stopped at the least offensive place and managed to get warm and raise our blood sugar enough to head back to the station for our designated pick-up.

Eh bien, at the station, with no pick-up in sight there was a certain degree of anxiety. Chris began her efforts to call the Chateau while Scott was looking at the timetable to see the earliest he could get back to Paris - not a good sign! I was thinking about the Rolls Royce that the hotel in Hong Kong had sent to pick us up. Forty-five minutes later with still no car in sight, there was some brief talk about lynching our travel arranger (Chris). Instead we took a cab to the chateau.

As we pulled into the drive, things began to look up. The chateau was lovely. In the garden room the mood quickly changed with our first glass of champagne and a discussion of the menu.

The menu was too complicated and required too many decisions so Scott suggested they just "surprise us". There were four courses. All had a champagne accompaniment except dessert (according to Veuve Cliquot, you "don't drink champagne with chocolate"). Each course had a dominant theme but was broken into 4 or 5 flights, each one presented separately in a dish or cup or bowl or goblet. I couldn't begin to describe them all so I'll just stick to the basic theme. Assume that fresh truffles, foie gras and seasonal mushrooms were

abundant.

Aperitif

1998 Veuve Cliquot Brut

Assorted nuts, flat breads, olives, salmon cake and faux french fries made from whipped potatoes. Not to mention the little glass of deviled egg that was outrageous.

The 'amuse bouche' was a little ball filled with warm champagne, presented atop the neck of a cut champagne bottle. We were told to pop the entire thing in our mouth because there would be a burst of liquid--a surprise!

Fish Course

2002 Veuve Cliquot Rose

Salmon tartare et al for the ladies

Scallops et al for the men.

Meat Course

1999 Veuve Cliquot Brut

Veal for the women on a bed of crisp veggies

Chicken rolled in truffles for the men (Bresse, of course - it is the most prized chicken in France where the markets carry, at least, Cock or Hen for 'traditional', 'farm raised' and 'Bresse') .

Dessert Course

Believe it or not, this was the course where they really outdid themselves. It came in three waves, each having 3-5 components. The first wave was a light puff pastry with cream and fresh raspberries, Next came the chocolate sensations: molten cake, mousse, puddings and ices. The third wave was delivered on a cart, like a cheese selection! At this point we all groaned--it all looked so good and was one of the most interestingly presented carts (Sheila-we were thinking of you!) We declined all but the smallest of tastes.

Coffee course

Served back in the garden room with brandies and chocolate truffles. We could barely finish the coffee--just wanting to be left alone to sleep it off. But no!!! There was more to come. We couldn't believe we were heading off to the caves and MORE CHAMPAGNE!

Our private tour with Fanny as guide, made this a truly deluxe experience. We went through the museum, which had a fascinating discussion of champagne forgery over the years and then went down into the chalk caves to look at the wine. It was interesting to hear about the process and the stories and innovations of Mme Cliquot. There were bottles that dated back almost 100 years. Back in the tasting room, they opened three bottles, all vintage a Brut, a Sec (slightly sweeter) and the flagship of the brand La Grande Dame (at least $150 a bottle retail). They were delicious but we were probably a little over-champagned by that point and not as appreciative as we might have been before lunch. Each couple was sent off with a bottle of the non-vintage Brut and a book of the history of Veuve Cliquot and an invitation to return.

The train ride home was quiet with all of us wishing that we could have gone back to the that lovely garden room for a nap. What an experience!

Wednesday, October 10, 2007

Paris Notes: 2

The past week and a half has been filled with friends and visitors. It's great to have visitors when we're in Paris, because it brings a new rhythm to our days and it's fun to share the experience with others. So far, it's been really great--highlights include:

  • An invitation to the home of a French couple who call Paris their home. Their warm welcome and willingness to put up with my less then perfect French won't be forgotten.

  • Participation in "Nuit Blanche" with friends Narissa and Tony. Without them we would probably never have gone Cafe hopping to watch the final minutes of the Rugby match between France and New Zealand (France won) nor gone walking at the Tuilleries which were lit up with hundreds of open torches, and burning sculptures.

  • Spending time with Scott and Jory eating great food, touring Champagne country and going to a cooking class.

Monday, October 08, 2007

Paris Notes

This is the fifth year we've come to Paris since we retired. We thought we'd share some observations at the end of the 2nd week...

We still love Paris.

  • On average, we walk about 5 miles a day (based on Chris' pedometer). Paris is an outdoors city where people are on the street, walking, bicycling and cafe-ing . Sometimes the whole city feels like Central Park on a Fall weekend. On every corner there are one or more terraces open all year long with large gas heaters for the colder weather. The good ones are full all year. It may be the small, dark apartments but people don't seem to entertain at home; instead congregating in the cafes and Bistros around town where you can meet friends or simply spend the day people-watching. New York is trying to increase the number of sidewalk cafes but the city just isn't set up that way. Paris has a "Place" every hundred yards - hell on traffic, but wonderful for sitting around.
  • There are more museums in Paris than in New York - there seems to be a museum to celebrate everyone and everything, but on the whole we prefer the ones we have in New York. They're more people-friendly and less crowded; one seldom finds a line to get in. On the other hand, the Musee d'Orsay may be the best all around museum I've ever been to, based on content and its manageable size.
  • Everybody has a dog and they seem to be welcome most places. The stoop and scoop law is often ignored, so it's imperative to keep at least one eye on where you're walking!

Staying on our diet is very difficult!

  • we love bread and cheese
  • salad is hard to find
  • the ice cream and gelato shops are along our daily route--we sometimes choose to miss a meal so we can indulge
  • It sometimes feels like we walk from cafe to bakery to creperie to gelato shop to chocolate shops. Every one having a favorite that is calling to us.

The Euro is strong, the Dollar is WEAK!

  • especially painful with the cost of restaurants. It can cost $50 for salad and club soda for two at a cafe and $600 for two at a nice (1 star) restaurant.

Chris is frustrated learning the language

  • She spends hours every day doing "homework" and in a conversation group
  • She talks to every cab driver, dog owner and waiter we see.
  • She is making progress despite what she thinks

To be continued...

Wednesday, September 26, 2007

One Way to go

In July, the city of Paris followed a tradition that began in Lyon to put 10,000 bicycles at 750 points around the city for people to use. It's called Velib. With a mere swipe of your credit card you can rent a bicycle for a short trip. Bicycles come equipped with a basket to hold your supplies, a lock, generator-operated light, reflectors and 3 gears! Use requires getting an inexpensive access card that provides 30 minutes of free time. After that, the cost is about E 2 per hour. The goal is to enocourage bike riding for short distances. You can pick-up and return the bicycles at any station. There are regular maintenance checks to keep things in order. There is a service that cruises the locations and checks tires and cleans the bikes. So far, it seems to be a hit with tourists and the general population. We see them eveywhere in central Paris. The plan is to double the number of bikes and locations by year-end. I have trouble imagining anything like it in NY - the closest we have are Zip Cars!

Using typically Parisian logic, the applications for the access card are available at Metro stations an PASTRY SHOPS only at the moment.

Paul and I haven't tried them YET! But it's on Chris' agenda.


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Thursday, September 20, 2007

Why are you going to Paris again, for six weeks!

Paris again? You're going for six weeks? Why not try some place else?

These are questions our friends ask us and that we ask ourselves. When we were in Rome last week we seriously discussed the possibility of going there or somewhere else instead of Paris. I have a strong bias towards cities and there are a number of world-class cities we could visit. Compared to Paris, cost is not a major issue with any of them. To me, the list of world class cities begins with New York and Paris followed by London and Rome and maybe a few others. After that, there is a break before a large group of nice cities that I would love to visit; but not spend six weeks.

The issue for me is that I want to go away for long enough to really feel like we're living there, not just visiting and sightseeing. I want to get up each morning, not with a checklist of things I to do before leaving, but with the thought that I just want to enjoy the day in the best way I can. That can mean just getting a baguette and a newspaper and sitting and watching the people go by; or it can mean going to see a wonderful show at a museum. It all depends on the day and what's available.

When we arrive in Paris, it's like coming home. We're like kids rushing to our favorite store to buy the bread and cheese we love. We spend hours going over Pariscope to see what's happening at the cabarets, museums and movie theaters and we start going over the Michelin and Pudlo restaurant guides to decide where we will be eating - old favorites and new. And, Chris starts planning her trips to the market - think of 10 Union Squares arranged end to end with incredible variety. They have more kinds of mushrooms, potatoes and beans than we ever dreamt of. We're much more organized here than we are in NY! I can't explain it but it's like being home. We love to walk the streets, miles of them. There's so much to do we feel like we're "bathing" in Paris. We know we won't get to it all, but we're also never bored. There's always next year.

I would be willing to go just about anywhere for a week, maybe two; but compared to New York or Paris I can't imagine staying any longer.

September 20/07

Sunday, November 05, 2006

Jazz at the Club Lionel Hampton in Paris

Last night we went to the Jazz club at the Meridien Hotel in the Port Maillot area near l'Etoile at l'Arc de Triomphe. I had first gone to this club with my friend Robert Crief from my days at Otis (the company, not the house). It is a medium-sized night club that has live music every night beginning at 10:30.


Last night there was a four piece band and singer (called Air Swing and Fire????) featuring Cole Porter tunes. It was Sunday night and they were about half full. We were in the second row of tables. It couldn't have been more perfect -in Paris - Cole Porter - songs in English; I could understand! We were in heaven.


The club has a 25 E minimum (generally, the price of the first drink). That's for the evening, not the set. After that the prices drop to a more reasonable level. We stayed for about 2 hours. I can never understand why NY has no places like this.




Le Jazz Club Lionel Hampton
Hotel Meridien Etoile
81 Blvd. Gouvion Saint Cyr,

75015 Paris.

Tel: 01 40 68 30 42

.

Saturday, November 04, 2006

Stella Maris - our best meal of the trip

This year it seems that Christina and I are eating out less, especially in 'Michelin-starred' restaurants. I think that we've been through the frenzy of having to try all the great restaurants and now look to discover the perfect place for a good evening meal. More often we decide to stay in and enjoy a bottle of wine, some cheese and a simple terrine. It's not that we don't like going out. We really enjoy a great restaurant and meal. Its just that we've decided we can do without the really mediocre places. We'd rather spend a little more (or a lot) for a memorable evening.

Last night we ate at Stella Maris a 'one-star' Michelin rated spot. We'd been there before about 3 years ago and remembered thinking that from the outside it was pretty undistinguished. Well, let me just say, the decore may be simple, but the food is fabulous. From start to finish we didn't have a single complaint (well maybe there was the unpleasantness of the American 'salesperson' at the next table talking so loudly we wished we could have stuffed a sock in his mouth). We tried not to let this dampen our spirits because he wasn't a bad guy, just loud and a little full of himself. Our food on the other hand was mouthwatering. Christina started with a terrine of ris de veau (pancreas), and mushrooms served with, truffled mashed potato (just a spoonful) and cepes (mushrooms). Paul enjoyed the house specialty of Millefeuille de Thon Rouge (layers of raw tuna with eggplant). We followed this with a Tourte de Gibier (really a sort of Beefwellington) but instead of beef, made with a variety of game meats including hare and pheasant. This was served with a rich brown sauce, beets, mashed potato and a green salad. Christina's Pomarde (female pigeon!) was perfectly done atop a choucroute (wrapped cabbage leaves), a rosti potato and some green beans topped with a slice of fresh foie gras (her favorite). It was a perfect 10 all round leaving us not wanting dessert else we spoil the memory of the meal we'd just eaten. Coffee was perfectly served with chocolate madeleines, crystalized orange peels and other little sweets. We'll definitely return!

ZAGATS says...
Tateru Yoshino – a remarkable chef who trained with the likes of Robuchon and Gagnaire – brings creativity and a Japanese mastery of technique to Classic French cuisine in his small place in the 8th; gourmets grin his interpretation of such national treasures as tête de veau (veal head, a French traditional dish we will never have it again anywhere) and lièvre (wild hare) à la royale is irreproachable, the service exceptional and a successful recent face-lift has warmed the formerly cold decor; given all this, prices aren’t so bad.

Stella Maris
4, rue Arsène Houssaye
Paris, France 75008
01 42 89 16 22

Parking in Paris

Friday, November 03, 2006

Some Better Experiences in Paris

Some better experiences in Paris

After our early disappointments (see http://restchallenge.blogspot.com/) we buckled down and seriously considered where we would be eating. In general, we avoid Michelin 2 and 3 star restaurants as painfully expensive and overly formal (both a result of the Michelin grading standards). A recent development has been the opening of more informal bistros by famous chefs that do not try to meet the Michelin standards. L'Atelier Maitre Albert, that disappointed us last week, is from Guy Savoy. We will be trying several more over the next few weeks.


Le Florimond is a thoroughly enjoyable restaurant in the 7th, near the Invalides. This is not an area we go to frequently because I don't like the ambiance as it's the HQ for many government offices. However, the review of this restaurant was good in both Michelin and Zagats. The restaurant is small and the staff was just delightful, a good sense of humor and repartee.


Overall this has been our best dining experience thus far. I started with a excellent foie gras and chicken giblets with salad. It was delicious and the salad was fresh (not always true in Paris, the French are not lovers of green vegetables). Chris had a mushroom and escargot terrine topped with cepes in a cream sauce. Delicious!


For the main course, Chris had "Chou Farci" (stuffed cabbage, there's no accounting for taste). It was quite good, and just like her grandma's. I had a much more traditional Perdreau (partridge) in a delicious stew. The bread was great and we had a very nice Burgundy (Beaune). The person beside us had an "assiette du chocolate" which looked like heaven for the chocolate lovers out there. The menu can be had for 35E.


An added bit of fun was a splendid view of the twinkling Eiffel tower viewed down the rue St. Dominique. The buildings on either side framed the tower perfectly.


Le Florimond

19, av de la Motte-Picquet
Paris 7, France
01 45 55 40 38




Le Christine is a delightful small bistro in an old Parisian house near the Odeon. Service is good and friendly in the packed small rooms. The buzz is definitely ���tourist���. The kitchen is open behind glass and it���s amazing that they can deliver beautifully prepared dishes to such a large crowd. If you go, ask to be seated in the back room, hopefully next to the window by the courtyard.


My starter, a vegetable tart, was excellent. Chris had a warm goat cheese on toast (she���s a sucker for warm goat cheese). Mine was better! (Only in his opinion!)

We shared a beautifully prepared whole bass in a salt crust served with a side of mashed potatoes (a Chris favorite). Unusually, we shared dessert (an orange souffl��) that was outstanding. I only wished we had ordered two. Our meal was complimentd by a bottle of Sancerre.


Christine (Le)

Zagat Review

Off the beaten path and oozing charm. Near the Odeon.

1, rue Christine
Paris 6 , France
01 40 51 71 64




Le Petit Pontoise is a wonderful Parisian bistro in the Latin Quarter, about a ten minute walk from our apartment. They specialize in French 'comfort food' if you can believe that. It's a small room and always crowded but the staff is friendly and helpful (everything is listed on blackboards around the room).


Christina started with a warm fig stuffed with roquefort cheese on a bed of greens (not all that fresh) and I had sauteed mushrooms (girolles) and garlic (lots of garlic!). We followed with scallops sauteed on a medley of vegetables. My Magret de Canard (duck breast) with roasted potatoes came in it's own casserole. Both were excellent. Our wine this evening was a Beaujolais (Morgon 2005).


The people at the next table were visiting from Minnesota (!) and we had nothing in common with them except the language and a love of Paris. They were both consultants working for the non-profit sector. He takes 100 mile bike rides, hikes, marathons and mountain climbs. Fortunately, they also eat! It was a fun evening, sharing good food, favourite places to wander and shops we have each enjoyed.


Petit Pontoise (Le)

Zagat Review

Wow. exclaim enthusiasts of this wonderful, unspoiled Parisian bistro in the Latin Quarter

9, rue de Pontoise
Paris , France
01 43 29 25 20


A Parisian feast!

Thursday, November 02, 2006

A visit to the Musee Picasso


The Musée Picasso is situated in the Marais in the heart of Paris. It is the largest Picasso collection in the world, including several thousand paintings, sculptures, drawings, ceramics, engraving, and even poetry. After his death in 1973, many of Picasso's works went to the French state in settlement of taxes. These are "Picasso's Picassos," not necessarily his most famous works, but rather the paintings and sculptures he kept and valued most. It also covers the artists personal collection of work by friends and influences such as Matisse, Braque, Cézanne, and Rousseau.



It is a relatively small and manageable museum and we go every time we are in Paris. The only drawback are the crowds. We were there on a Thursday afternoon in November and it was crowded! On the other hand, I am always fascinated by how much we learn each time we go about the various periods and genres of his life. I started by "knowing" that I liked his more classical work and drawings and did not like the Cubist or Surrealist works. However, each time I see them and listen carefully to the Audio-Guide, I grow to really like specific works - although mostly the later Surrealist works.




This special exhibit, from the collection of a German-American dealer/collector named HEINZ BERGGRUEN included several hundred new works that we had never seen before (mostly from the Berlin Museum). The painting at right, The Yellow Pullover, is a good example. It is a painting of the photographer/activist/lover Dora Maar. You can really see (after listening to ten minutes of explanation) what she "looked" like and how he saw her. The almost armor-like sweater, the searching eyes, the tense hands, the beautiful hair. But most importantly, you grow to like her and feel you know her.



By the way, this makes the third exhibit we've seen this year of the collected works of a dealer. I wonder if that's a coincidence? It also makes you wonder how the dealers do business that they are able to accumulate such enormous, and valuable, collections. Maybe the artists are right not to trust them.


5 r. de Thorigny </DIV>


Paris- 75003
Telephone: 01 42 71 25 21

Why we go to Paris - for our health!

Red wine holds key to health

November 2, 2006
Yes, Red Wine Holds Answer. Check Dosage.
By NICHOLAS WADE
Can you have your cake and eat it? Is there a free lunch after all, red wine included? Researchers at the Harvard Medical School and the National Institute on Aging report that a natural substance found in red wine, known as resveratrol, offsets the bad effects of a high-calorie diet in mice and significantly extends their lifespan.
Their report, published electronically yesterday in Nature, implies that very large daily doses of resveratrol could offset the unhealthy, high-calorie diet thought to underlie the rising toll of obesity in the United States and elsewhere, if people respond to the drug as mice do.
Resveratrol is found in the skin of grapes and in red wine and is conjectured to be a partial explanation for the French paradox, the puzzling fact that people in France enjoy a high-fat diet yet suffer less heart disease than Americans.
The researchers fed one group of mice a diet in which 60 percent of calories came from fat. The diet started when the mice, all males, were a year old, which is middle-aged in mouse terms. As expected, the mice soon developed signs of impending diabetes, with grossly enlarged livers, and started to die much sooner than mice fed a standard diet.
Another group of mice was fed the identical high-fat diet but with a large daily dose of resveratrol (far larger than a human could get from drinking wine). The resveratrol did not stop them from putting on weight and growing as tubby as the other fat-eating mice. But it averted the high levels of glucose and insulin in the bloodstream, which are warning signs of diabetes, and it kept the mice’s livers at normal size.
Even more striking, the substance sharply extended the mice’s lifetimes. Those fed resveratrol along with the high- fat diet died many months later than the mice on high fat alone, and at the same rate as mice on a standard healthy diet. They had all the pleasures of gluttony but paid none of the price.
Scientists have long known that a moderate intake of alcohol, and red wine in particular, is associated with a lowered risk of heart disease and other benefits. More recently, scientists began to suspect resveratrol had particularly powerful effects and began investigating its role in lifespan.
The researchers, led by David Sinclair and Joseph Baur at the Harvard Medical School and by Rafael de Cabo at the National Institute on Aging, also tried to estimate the effect of resveratrol on the mice’s physical quality of life. They gauged how well the mice could walk along a rotating rod before falling off, a test of their motor skills. The mice on resveratrol did better as they grew older, ending up with much the same staying power on the rod as mice fed a normal diet.
The researchers hope their findings will have relevance to people too. Their study shows, they conclude, that orally taken drugs “at doses achievable in humans can safely reduce many of the negative consequences of excess caloric intake, with an overall improvement in health and survival.”
Several experts said that people wondering if they should take resveratrol should wait until more results were in, particularly from safety tests in humans. Another caution is that the theory about why resveratrol works is still unproved.
“It’s a pretty exciting area, but these are early days,” said Dr. Ronald Kahn, president of the Joslin Diabetes Center in Boston.
Information about resveratrol’s effects on human metabolism should be available a year or so, Dr. Kahn said, adding, “Have another glass of pinot noir — that’s as far as I’d take it right now.”
The mice were fed a hefty dose of resveratrol, 24 milligrams per kilogram of body weight. Red wine has about 1.5 to 3 milligrams of resveratrol per liter, so a 150-lb person would need to drink 750 to 1,500 bottles of red wine a day to get such a dose.
Dr. Richard Hodes, director of the National Institute on Aging, which helped support the study, also said that people should wait for the results of safety testing. Substances that are safe and beneficial in small doses, like vitamins, sometimes prove to be harmful when taken in high doses, Dr. Hodes said.
One person who is not following this prudent advice, however, is Dr. Sinclair, the chief author of the study. He has long been taking resveratrol, though at a dose of only five milligrams per kilogram. Mice given that amount in a second feeding trial have shown similar, but less pronounced, results as those on the 24-milligram-a-day dose, he said.
Dr. Sinclair has had a physician check his metabolism, because many resveratrol preparations contain possibly hazardous impurities, but so far no ill effects have come to light. His wife, his parents, and “half my lab” are also taking resveratrol, he said.
Dr. Sinclair declined to name his source of resveratrol. Many companies sell the substance, along with claims that rivals’ preparations are inactive. One such company, Longevinex, sells an extract of red wine and knotweed that contains an unspecified amount of resveratrol. But each capsule is equivalent to “5 to 15 5-ounce glasses of the best red wine,” the company’s Web site asserts.
Dr. Sinclair is the founder of a company, Sirtris Pharmaceuticals, that has developed several chemicals intended to mimic the role of resveratrol but at much lower doses. Sirtris has begun clinical trials of one of these compounds, an improved version of resveratrol, with the aim of seeing if it helps control glucose levels in people with diabetes.
“We believe you cannot reach therapeutic levels in man with ordinary resveratrol,” said Dr. Christoph Westphal, the company’s chief executive.
Behind the resveratrol test is a considerable degree of scientific theory, some of it well established and some yet to be proved. Dr. Sinclair’s initial interest in resveratrol had nothing to do with red wine. It derived from work by Leonard Guarente of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, who in 1995 found a gene that controlled the longevity of yeast, a single-celled fungus.
Dr. Guarente and Dr. Sinclair, who had come from Australia to work as a postdoctoral student in Dr. Guarente’s laboratory, discovered the mechanism by which the gene makes yeast cells live longer. The gene is known as Sir-2 in yeast, sir standing for silent information regulator, and its equivalent in mice and humans is called SIRT-1.
Dr. Guarente then found that the gene’s protein needed a common metabolite to activate it, and he developed the theory that the gene, by sensing the level of metabolic activity, mediates a phenomenon of great interest to researchers in aging, the greater life span caused by caloric restriction.
Researchers have known since 1935 that mice fed a calorically restricted diet — one with all necessary vitamins and nutrients but 40 percent fewer calories — live up to 50 percent longer than mice on ordinary diets.
This low-calorie-provoked increase in longevity occurs in many organisms and seems to be an ancient survival strategy. When food is plentiful, live in the fast lane and breed prolifically. When famine strikes, switch resources to body maintenance and live longer so as to ride out the famine.
Most people find it impossible to keep to a diet with 40 percent fewer calories than usual. So if caloric restriction really does make people as well as mice live longer — which is plausible but not yet proved — it would be desirable to have some drug that activated the SIRT-1 gene’s protein, tricking it into thinking that days of famine lay ahead.
In 2003 Dr. Sinclair, by then in his own laboratory, devised a way to test a large number of chemicals for their ability to mimic caloric restriction in people by activating SIRT-1. The champion was resveratrol, already well known for its possible health benefits.
Critics point out that resveratrol is a powerful chemical that acts in many different ways in cells. The new experiment, they say, does not prove that resveratrol negated the effects of a high-calorie diet by activating SIRT-1. Indeed, they are not convinced that resveratrol activates SIRT-1 at all.
“It hasn’t really been clearly shown, the way a biochemist would want to see it, that resveratrol can activate sirtuin,” said Matt Kaeberlein, a former student of Dr. Guarente’s who does research at the University of Washington in Seattle. Sirtuin is the protein produced by the SIRT-1 gene.
Dr. Sinclair said experiments at Sirtris had essentially wrapped up this point. But they have not yet been published, so under the rules of scientific debate he cannot use them to support his position. In his Nature article he therefore has to concede that “Whether resveratrol acts directly or indirectly through Sir-2 in vivo is currently a subject of debate.”
Given that caloric restriction forces a trade-off between fertility and lifespan, resveratrol might be expected to reduce fertility in mice. Dr. Sinclair said he saw no such infertility in his experiment, but he said that might be because the mice were not on a low-calorie diet.
If resveratrol does act by prodding the sirtuins into action, then there will be much interest in the new class of sirtuin activators now being tested by Sirtris. Dr. Westphal, the company’s chief executive, has no practical interest in the longevity-promoting effects of sirtuins and caloric restriction.
For the Food and Drug Administration, if for no one else, aging is not a disease and death is not an end-point. The F.D.A. will approve only drugs that treat diseases in measurable ways, so Dr. Westphal hopes to show that his sirtuin activators will improve the indicators of specific diseases, starting with diabetes.
“We think that if we can harness the benefits of caloric restriction, we wouldn’t simply have ways of making people live longer, but an entirely new therapeutic strategy to address the diseases of aging,” Dr. Guarente said.

Tuesday, October 31, 2006

Le Cirque d'Hiver


I'm a real circus junky so when Irv and Iris recommended we go to "Le Cirque d'Hiver" I didn't miss a beat and reserved seats - front row and center - even though we weren't planning on kidnapping a little kid off the street to bring along! On the appointed day, there we were amidst a zillion kids (it's holiday week here), parents and sundry other folk.

This is the winter home of the European travelling circus. It's an opulent permanent "tent" complete with a full orchestra, clever announcers and showgirls who entertained the audience as the runners prepared for the next act. It's a one ring circus a little like our own "Big Apple Circus" in NYC.

We had a lot of fun watching the snowy tigers perform not more then 3 feet from our seats! There were the usual 'jongleurs', 'trapezistes, 'chevaux' (dancing horses) and of course, the clowns. We enjoyed everything. Chris was thrilled to be able to understand some of the jokes. We especially enjoyed a 'ventriloque' who made you think a live dog was talking and the juggler who worked with 6 white balls that he bounced on the floor so fast it looked like they were attached to strings. There were also two amazing Chinese 'equilabristes' who twisted their bodies into unbelievable shapes while they balanced on each other and twirled parasols and cloth disks from every part of their bodies. At one point one girl was bent over backwards on the floor on one foot and hand while spinning disks from the others. The other girl was standing on her hand on her hip while twirling disks from her other three extremeties. It was remarkable!

At right is a Toulouse-Lautrec painting of the Cirque from the 1880's.

The whole experience was magic--when the lights dimmed every kid had twirling light-wands that made the room sparkle (Paul wouldn't let me get one).

Le Cirque d'Hiver
110 rue Amelot
Paris 11


















































































































Toulouse-Lautrec Painting of Cirque d'hiver












Saturday, October 28, 2006

Parking - Un Sport de Payee

Anyone visiting Paris will be amazed by the skill and expertise with which residents park in this city. There's no space too small or inaccessible for the determined. Parking is a creative activity where the sport seems to be in how many vehicles can fit on any given street. Here there seems to be pride in squeezing a car into a spot that requires 'kissing' the bumpers of the car in front or in back of you. Drivers sometimes require several minutes to maneuver into position holding up traffic on the narrow streets. It's surprising how patient people are, perhaps they identify with those parking! For anyone spotting a space, it's not unthinkable to witness them drive diagonally through traffic to secure the coveted spot! Pedestrians beware! It's no wonder that many sidewalks are lined with stanchions or poles to avoid assertive drivers pulling right up onto the sidewalks. Mind you, this doesn't seem to inhibit those with scooters or motorbikes. It is not uncommon to have to scramble to get out of the way of someone on a scooter on the sidewalk! Please look at the picture at the right. The flower pots are at the edge of the sidewalk. The yellow truck is driving in the road. The cars are parked on the sidewalk. The scooter is driving on the sidewalk. The woman with the baby carriage is trying to not get hit.

Believe it or not, they have traffic police in Paris who are supposed to give tickets for illegal parking. But we can not figure out when they ticket and why. We think these may be the same guys that issue tickets to those who fail to stoop and scoop! We have seen a car booted but we expect this is for extreme cases where a car has been left for a very long time blocking the road.

Our worst dinner in Paris - Chez Omar

This is a "couscous" restaurant". One of the best-rated in Paris. Zagats loves it (see comments below). We were sitting between two tables of Brits who recommended the Couscous "Royale" for two and the Legumes (vegetarian). We should have known better. The Royale was sort of a "mixed grill of all the meats they serve. The vegetables were primarily carrots, chickpeas, zucchini and celery.


It was the worst meal we have had in Paris in years. The meat tasted like it had been boiled with the fat providing the only flavor. The only exception were two lambchops that had been grilled and were tasty. The six lamb sausages were so salty we couldn't them. The vegetables, not having any fat, were boiled beyond any taste or texture.

We did have fresh strawberries for dessert that were good.

I can't imagine where Zagats got its ratings. I can only believe tourists were drawn by the large portions at reasonable prices.

Chez Omar
47, rue de Bretagne
Paris 11, France
01 42 72 36 26
For “couscous at its most trendy”, check out this “casual” “fashion-industry favorite” in the 11th, where plates are “piled high” with “pleasant” Moroccan morsels, the “jovial” owner makes “you feel like a local on your first” visit and the “waiters never stop joking around”; the place is usually “packed” and they “don’t take reservations”, but “don’t be turned off by the line that often extends out the door” – it’s “worth the wait.”

Friday, October 27, 2006

French Lessons

During our stay this year, I decided to spend some time in the classroom working on my French. Each morning I spend an hour and a half with a a teacher and a group of three. The groups have changed some over the time I've been here. The cuurent teacher, Arnaud is young, patient and a force to be reckoned with--she does NOT like to hear an English word being spoken. At first, I felt I was making steady progress. It's now the end of my fourth week, and I feel I've 'hit the wall' so to speak. Nothing that comes out of my mouth seems correct; I mix up my verbs and pronouns, and have a thing about using 'sur' when I should be using 'dans'! It's enough to make me want to 'jette mes papiers dans la rue'! One of the daily exercises is to listen to a tape and report on what was said, I'm hopeless!--I hear a completely different story then anyone else. And Paul tells me that this is how I am in English--can you believe he said that???? The other students, currently a young 23 year old from London and an equally young person from Hong Kong are, I seem to be doing better then me. I try not to be too hard on myself; they are both taking two classes a day; and Vickie is living with a French family. BUT! Je ne parle pas bien! Or at least not as 'bien' as I would like. The group teases me about my "Franglais". When I can't think of the word in French, I substitute English! It's always worked for me when speaking German to my mother! I've got one more week and then it will be time to 'retourne aux l'Etats-Unis'. I'm hoping not lose what I've learned before we return next year, so let me know if you speak French and would like to 'parler'.

A bientot,

Christina