Stella Maris - our best meal of the trip

This year it seems that Christina and I are eating out less, especially in 'Michelin-starred' restaurants. I think that we've been through the frenzy of having to try all the great restaurants and now look to discover the perfect place for a good evening meal. More often we decide to stay in and enjoy a bottle of wine, some cheese and a simple terrine. It's not that we don't like going out. We really enjoy a great restaurant and meal. Its just that we've decided we can do without the really mediocre places. We'd rather spend a little more (or a lot) for a memorable evening.

Last night we ate at Stella Maris a 'one-star' Michelin rated spot. We'd been there before about 3 years ago and remembered thinking that from the outside it was pretty undistinguished. Well, let me just say, the decore may be simple, but the food is fabulous. From start to finish we didn't have a single complaint (well maybe there was the unpleasantness of the American 'salesperson' at the next table talking so loudly we wished we could have stuffed a sock in his mouth). We tried not to let this dampen our spirits because he wasn't a bad guy, just loud and a little full of himself. Our food on the other hand was mouthwatering. Christina started with a terrine of ris de veau (pancreas), and mushrooms served with, truffled mashed potato (just a spoonful) and cepes (mushrooms). Paul enjoyed the house specialty of Millefeuille de Thon Rouge (layers of raw tuna with eggplant). We followed this with a Tourte de Gibier (really a sort of Beefwellington) but instead of beef, made with a variety of game meats including hare and pheasant. This was served with a rich brown sauce, beets, mashed potato and a green salad. Christina's Pomarde (female pigeon!) was perfectly done atop a choucroute (wrapped cabbage leaves), a rosti potato and some green beans topped with a slice of fresh foie gras (her favorite). It was a perfect 10 all round leaving us not wanting dessert else we spoil the memory of the meal we'd just eaten. Coffee was perfectly served with chocolate madeleines, crystalized orange peels and other little sweets. We'll definitely return!

ZAGATS says...
Tateru Yoshino – a remarkable chef who trained with the likes of Robuchon and Gagnaire – brings creativity and a Japanese mastery of technique to Classic French cuisine in his small place in the 8th; gourmets grin his interpretation of such national treasures as tête de veau (veal head, a French traditional dish we will never have it again anywhere) and lièvre (wild hare) à la royale is irreproachable, the service exceptional and a successful recent face-lift has warmed the formerly cold decor; given all this, prices aren’t so bad.

Stella Maris
4, rue Arsène Houssaye
Paris, France 75008
01 42 89 16 22