Hearth in the East Village

Hearth is a modest-looking new-American in the East Village. The rooms are pretty modest but the food and service are first rate. We are not the first to discover this place so be sure to call in advance for reservations.

Last night, the service was especially well versed and attentive. The comparison to Nish, where we ate last week was notable. There the waiter didn't even know what sweetbreads were - he advised a diabetic to avoid them because they were "sweet"! While tasty, they were somewhat overcooked.

At Hearth, we both started with salads. I had the Arugula with Shaved Fennel topped with marinated White Anchovies and Cipollini Onions. Chris had Fava Beans with Pecorino Cheese dressed with a light olive oil and vinegar. Both were absolutely fresh and flavorful. Fava beans seem to be coming into season so were featured prominently on the menu. The 'chefs gift' was a small taste of Dried Fava Bean Soup and there were at least two other dishes with the bean in some form.

It's unusual for us to select the same entree, but we both chose to have braised Veal Cheeks and Sweetbreads, accompanied by Morel Mushrooms and Spring Onions. Everything was perfectly prepared and delicious. The dish itself was plated beautifully - and the aroma.....well, you'll just have to go have a taste.

Overall, this is a really good restaurant with first rate service. Some might be put off by the layout of the rooms which resemble railway cars with exposed brick walls and bare tables. It seems quite modest, not really up to the standard of the food and service. It looks like it would be fun to eat at the small bar overlooking the kitchen where you feel like you're part of the action. Probably not the place to take someone for a romantic evening, more suited to a group who cherish the buzz and the impressive wine list and menu. Speaking of the menu, it was rather creative; and for those who love desserts there was the usual chocolate specialty and a selection of ice cream but also a 'grapefruit' cheese cake which sounded interesting and I have to admit to sharing a lime tart dessert that reminded us of the best Key Lime pie from Florida!

Hearth

403 East 12th Street (at 1st Ave.)

646-602-1300