Friday, December 29, 2006

Working for Your Dinner and MORE!

Paul and I are not always the easiest people to buy Christmas or Birthday presents for--especially Paul who, just when you think you have a good idea, comes home with a smile on his face proclaiming "Look what I got!"

This fact does not seem to faze the likes of Scott and Jory who each year manage to come up with some of the most unique gifts for us. Last night we actively participated in our gift for this year by dutifully opening box #1 at the appointed hour. Inside was a pop-up paper martini glass along with a "lucky red" Chinese envelope (cute because we're going to China!) containing money. The instructions sent us to an address in the village. We only had a small clue to the name and when the taxi dropped us off at the corner of 7th Ave. and LeRoy, the only indication that we were at the right spot was the small group of people milling about outside the door. No signs and the doors were locked! Could we be at one of those places that only the really "in" crowd knows about ?????? Not wanting to look like we didn't know what we were doing, we too milled about and waited patiently. Promptly at 7:15 pm the door swung open and we followed the crowd down some rather steep, dark stairs to what was definitely a 'retro' bar from another time. Scott and Jory told us the staff arrives two hours ahead of opening to squeeze fresh juice, chill glasses, cut blocks of ice to keep the drinks from diluting quickly and load garnishes into a custom-built ice block. Drink selections come on a menu or you can name your favorite liquor and the bartender will dream up a cocktail just for you. Paul had an old fashioned "Manhattan" and I had a "Tequila Gimlet" which were delightful. Drinks are served in old fashioned martini glasses, and there are NO bar snacks except for a oyster station at the bar.

Now that we felt like we were in the know and with libations attended to, we were ready for the second envelope. This time, the directions sent us to 310 West 4th Street near W. 12th. This certainly was "The Place" to be! We were ushered to a cozy corner table and enjoyed every bite of our dinner. Paul's "Wild Mushroom Risotto was well prepared as was my "Frisee Salad with Pear, Cheese and Candied Nuts". Our main courses of "Short Ribs" on mashed potatoes for Paul and Roasted Cod with Fingerling Potatoes and Broccoli Rabe" for me could not have been better. The portions were just the right size, which left room for chocolate cake and some wonderful spiced and caramelized pears with ice cream. Usually after coffee, we would have happily headed back home, but not tonight--we were, after all, swinging in the Village!



Our last envelope contained a picture of the Knights of the round table and a clue which read, "where this group might go to enjoy some blues". Looking at the address, Paul guessed right away that it was "Arthur's Tavern" on Grove Street. We got there just in time to snag the last table and enjoyed a set along with our after-dinner drinks. The crowd here reminded Paul of his college days and looking around we definitely felt a little "over the hill"! It was a great spot and we clapped and tapped our feet right along with the best of them. What an adventure, and what a night!

Thursday, December 28, 2006

THE NEW YORK SWINGERS

New Talent

Last night I was invited to attend a concert by relative newcomers to the music industry. The presentation was by invitation only, and the venue was a delightfully decorated living room setting. The never before heard, newly written and performed, selection on piano and recorder was performed by the brother and sister team of Jordyn and Justin Radin who just happen to live in our building.

The performance was a very good first effort by this team and the organization impressive. Their timing was good, the carefully written Playbill and individually issued tickets professional, and the length of the intermission was just right for sharing some refreshments.

If you ever have the good fortune to catch this act, don't hesitate!

Christina
December 28, 2006

Sony Reader - acceptable but not elegant


I received the new "Sony Reader" from Chris for Christmas. I think she bought it in self-defense from all the books I buy. We long ago filled up the NY apartment and are working on the house in the Berkshires. I have made a point to use it over Christmas because we needed to make a decision about what to take to China. I have been accumulating soft-cover "trade edition" books since we returned from Paris. Essentially, if it is usable, it gives us a lot more flexibility in what we take.

The bottom line is it is usable, but flawed.

The unit is about the size of a "trade" pocket book and weighs about the same. The screen, using the new e-ink is quite remarkable. The text is exceptionally crisp; indistinguishable from print and can be instantly re-sized to three pre-set fonts. Enough for most normal reading conditions. The main drawback is the screen in not back-lit and must be read in good lighting. It is difficult to read in shady or shadowed places. On the other hand, the battery life, thanks no doubt to the lack of a back-light is almost infinite (Sony claims 7,000 page turns, about 20 books). It re-charges when attached to your computer or an outlet. Lastly, it does a good job of presenting large images (like personal photos in gray-tones) but a lousy job with small, usually detailed, graphics or pictures in books.

The controls are acceptable, but not elegant. It is page-oriented and you can rapidly page forward or backward. It also uses predetermined "hot links" (from an Index or Table of Contents). What you cannot do is browse. A real limitation with more serious non-fiction books.

Books are downloaded from a Sony Connect web-site. It is also acceptable but not elegant. It reminded me of Audible.com, the site for downloading books-on-tape. The book's cost ranges from $3 for a non-copyrighted work to about $15 for a current publication. Not a bargain. A bigger issue is the library. It is not very large and not easily browsed. No one at Sony must ever have used Amazon or Netflix. This is the most important area for them to fix. New generations of software and hardware can improve the unit, but if there is no content it won't matter. The unit accepts other formats (Word and Adobe) but not easily.

The bottom line? We'll take it, but only as a supplement to the physical books. It works best with "undemanding" fiction - mysteries, suspense rather than Literature or Non-Fiction. I've downloaded a half dozen mysteries to take with us.

Friday, December 22, 2006

Antica Venezia

Antica Venezia is a pleasant, rustic restaurant with a cozy fireplace on the far west side (10th Street and the River).

Antica Venezia

396 West St.
(W. 10th St.)
Manhattan, NY 10014
212-229-0606

Wednesday, December 20, 2006

Regrets Only



Regrets Only
Manhattan Theater Club at City Center
131 West 55th Street
New York, New York 10019



"A delicious new comedy of Manhattan manners, exploring the very latest topics in marriage and friendship. The setting: a Park Avenue penthouse. The players: a powerhouse attorney, his deliriously social wife and their closest friend, one of the world's most staggeringly successful fashion designers. Add a daughter's engagement, some major gowns, the President of the United States, and stir."

We just saw "Regrets Only", a Manhattan Theater Club production. We enjoyed it immensely. It reminded me a little bit of 1930's movies like "The Thin Man". The set, of a NY duplex apartment is so beautiful that Chris and the woman next to us were discussing how many closets it had! Paul Rudnick has written hilarious, sophisticated NY one-liner type dialog; and the cast, especially Christine Baranski (of Sybill fame) has a ball delivering it. Jackie Hoffman plays "the only Jewish maid in NY with wisecracking zest. The only quibble is the story-line is a bit weak, but you laugh so often you lose track.

Tuesday, December 19, 2006

Ada Restaurant

Ada Restaurant

208 E. 58th St.

(bet. 2nd & 3rd Aves.)
Manhattan, NY 10022
212-371-6060

We decided to try a new Indian restaurant. We had been going to Dawat on 58th Street for years and felt it was a little too familiar. Ada is just down the block. It's looks about the same - nice but nothing special, but the service is significantly better - friendly and attentive - although a bit slow.

The menu is traditional with a fusion of western flavors (mushrooms and herbs). We really enjoyed the "Chef's Basket" of three breads (assorted Naans and Kulchas). We followed with a "Wild Mushroom Samosa" and "Goan Barbecue Ribs". Both were excellent.

I had "Stuffed Morel Mushrooms" that were very flavorful. Chris had a whole striped bass with braised greens. We shared a "Pilau Rice" with vegetables that was absolutely wonderful. We both had Indian Beer.

In all, a very nice evening. We plan on trying some other new Indian restaurants next year.

Sunday, December 17, 2006

The social event of the season on Sutton Place

Last night was the premier event of the Sutton Place Christmas social season. I refer, of course to our annual soiree.

In my considered, and unbiased view, this year we had the best, and most creative decorations - thanks in no small part to my efforts to stay totally uninvolved. An effort in which I was completely successful. Chris and Jory really did a wonderful job creating a White Christmas "vignette" that wonderfully evoked the season. What was even more wonderful, everyone noticed, and commented, on the new look. The food was also quite good thanks to my undying insistence on "pigs in the blanket" (now a trendy favorite!) and the delightful little "lamb chops". One particularly good new item this year was the "shrimp toast--and those were just the appetizers! The "beef tenderloin" seemed to be a crowd favorite and once again, no one went home hungry! The wine and champagne punch was OK, but not outstanding. It was better last year.

Chris insists on songs before dessert so the place was truly "alive with the sound of carolling". This is always best done after numerous glasses of wine and champagne punch. Jerry Greenberg returned to sing and play for the third year. He does a does a great job of sensing the mood of the room and keeping it upbeat.

With a party like this it's the guests who make it happen - or not. As the party has evolved over the years some new people come and go, but the core group has remained the same. Long-time friends and neighbors and Pfizerites. Many do not see each other from year to year but seem to pick up as if no time has passed. Both Chris and I really look forward to seeing everyone each year, then never seem to have enough time to talk.

HAPPY CHANUKAH AND MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL!

Friday, December 15, 2006

Jazz @ Lincoln Center -



Red Hot Holiday Stomp:
Time Warner Center
Wynton Marsalis and Friends


"When Santa and the Mrs. get to dancin' the "New Orleans Bump," you know you're walking in a Wynton Wonderland--a place where joyous music meets comic storytelling. Wynton Marsalis, Herlin Riley, Dan Nimmer, Wycliffe Gordon, Don Vappie and others rattle the rafters with holiday classics swung with Crescent-City style"

We went with friends Susan and Jerry Schaffer from our building and both thoroughly enjoyed the show. Their jazzy versions of Christmas classics were delightful as was Wynton Marsalis' signature narration. Classic jazz afficionados may quibble with the arrangements and intensity but we, and the almost sold-out house, were happy.

Before the show we went to a good Italian restaurant just across the street from the show.

Gabriel's
11 W. 60th St.(bet. B'way & Columbus Ave.)
Manhattan, NY 10023
212-956-4600

The restaurant has two large rooms and a "happening" bar. We were seated right on time (no small thing pre-theater). The menu has an interesting variety of traditional and seasonal Tuscan dishes.

We started with "Roasted Sweet peppers with Mozzarella" which was absolutely perfect. Unfortunately I, at the last minute, switched to "Grilled Portobello Mushrooms" which were less than perfect. The balsamic vinegar was too overwhelming and drowned out the mushroom.

Jerry and I followed with "Stuffed Quail with potato au gratin" that was just right. The meat was tender a seasoned perfectly. Christina had the "Goat Stew in wine sauce with Hot Peppers" that she thought was delicious. Not your everyday dish! Susan had the "Gnocchi with cheese" that was also quite good. We shared a nice "Vino Nobile de Montepulciano"

All in all, a very nice restaurant conveniently located to the theater.

Wednesday, December 13, 2006

Suddenly Last Summer




Roundabout Theater
Laura Pels Theater
111 West 46th Street (betw. 6th & 7th Aves)
New York, New York



This is a new production of the psychological drama by Tennessee Williams, starring Blythe Danner as the formidable Mrs. Venable, an aging widow distraught over the mysterious death of her son. Carla Gugino plays the young cousin who traveled with him and knows the true story of his death. Mrs. Venable will stop at nothing to preserve her son's reputation.


We really like this show. A real, horrible, drama is a nice change of pace from musical comedy. Blythe Danner is wonderful as the diabolical mother trying to bribe the doctor to give her niece a lobotomy to prevent her from talking about her son. Carla Gugino was also wonderful as the somewhat crazed niece facing lobotomy if she perists in her story. (I think she had lip enhancements which I found very distracting--Chris). The doctor, Gale Herold, is just a supporting player to the two women in this production, as are the rest of the cast.









Thursday, December 07, 2006

Christmas in New York

Every year there are different things that "get us into the spirit". Sometimes it's an early snowfall or passing the newly lit Christmas tree at Rockefeller Center. This year it was the lighting of the large Christmas tree at the Metropolitan Museum. This has been a ritual at the Met for at least 30 years. If you've never seen the "angel tree" as it's known you're missing a very special time. The tree is decorated exclusively with 18th century Neapolitan creche figures. The figures are individual works of art that combine to form a re-creation of a village nativity scene. The tree itself is decorated with angels and candles that seem to swirl in their silk robes to the star on top. The yearly tree lighting is a grand affair which includes a dramatic rising of the lights (accompanied by the sounds of music), that makes the figures seem to glow with the rising sun. Each year there is some live entertainment that never disappoints. This year the New York Children's choir delighted us with their upbeat versions of traditional Christmas carols.

We loved every part of it, especially the children's choir and thought we were ready for the holidays at last!

After the tree lighting, it was only 7:30 and there we were "all dressed up with no where to go". After the Met, we frequently go to Bemelman's Bar at the Carlyle Hotel where they have music every night. But it was too crowded so we walked over to the Regency Hotel on Park Avenue. Amazingly there was room for Michael Feinstein's holiday show.

Feinstein’s at the Regency
Home for the Holidays
540 Park Avenue, at 61st Street
(212) 339-4095;

Neither Christina nor I had ever seen him perform. We were hoping to see the show, an annual favorite, before we left for China, but had very little time or hope of getting a ticket.

The show was absolutely delightful. He performs with a six member band (including Jay Leonhart that we'd seen a couple of weeks ago at the Blue Note) and three back-up singers. It's really almost too big a show for cabaret, but it is his room. He brought a little polish and romance to all the traditional Christmas favorites and did a wonderful boogie-woogie tune, "Pig-foot Pete", an Oscar runner-up from the year White Christmas won (1942). At the end Chris let out a mournful "No, it can't be over!"

It was a great show. See it if you can. He's there until the 30th of December.

Vertical Hour


Julianne Moore plays a young American war correspondent turned academic who now teaches Political Studies at Yale. A brief holiday with her boyfriend in the Welsh borders brings her into contact with the kind of Englishman whose culture and beliefs are a surprise and a challenge, both to her and to her relationship.

We enjoyed the play without really liking it. The story is a glib panoply of contemporary concerns - Iraq, terrorism, state of the US and UK society and government over-layed with a Freudian melange of guilt and Father/Son competition. I knew it was going to be "interesting" when it started with a discussion of Freud between Julianne Moore and a 20 year old student. If it sounds like a mess, it is - almost.

But it is saved by the absolutely wonderful performance of Bill Nighy as the father and a credible performance by Julianne Moore. But it's really his show. He plays the father of her boyfriend and lends an air of verisimilitude to his portrayal of a brilliant, lecherous carryover from the hippy/druggy sixties. One of the critics referred to it as a "guilty pleasure". Which is an apt description; because the dialog is enjoyable even though the story totally lacks subtlety and nuance.

Music Box Theater
252 West 45th Street
New York, New York 10036







Thursday, November 30, 2006

Heartbreak House

George Bernard Shaw's 'Heartbreak House' is thought-provoking, amusing and touching, with compassion for the foibles of mere mortals. The play is an exhilarating comic masterpiece.

Comments
It's amazing how relevant and current Shaw's description of a civilization in decline remains almost a century after it was written. His descriptions of different personality archetypes and how they interact is still right on. The cast is wonderful. Phillip Boscoe as the Captain and Swoosie Kurtz and Laila Robbins as the two daughters are especially good. Roundabout Theater is now two for two. An auspicious beginning!

Roundabout Theater Company
American Airlines Theatre
227 W 42nd Street
New York, NY 10036

Tuesday, November 28, 2006

The Apple Tree

We saw the Roundabout Theater production of 'The Apple Tree' last night. It is a unique show featuring three one-act musicals about men, women and a little thing called temptation. The Apple Tree is based on "The Diary of Adam and Eve" (detailing the goings-on in Eden) by Mark Twain; "The Lady or the Tiger?" by Frank R. Stockton; and "Passionella" by Jules Feiffer, with additional book material by Jerome Coopersmith.

It was very entertaining, not heavy or serious, but good fun. Just right for the season. We've been subscribers to Roundabout Theater for a number of years and have found their productions uneven. This is the first of this season and hopefully indicative of the remaining ones. We're seeing the next one, Heartbreak House tonight so we'll know.

Studio 54
254 W 54th St
New York, NY 10019

Monday, November 20, 2006

Blue Note New York


We went to the (world famous) Blue Note for the Jazz Brunch on Sunday. The room and tables are tight but not overcrowded at Brunch.
Appearing were:
Jay Leonhart, bass and vocals
Wycliffe Gordon, trombone and vocals
Ted Rosenthal, piano
We enjoyed the show. The three had a nice, relaxed, stage presence and played a smooth Jazz.
On the other hand, the food was what you might expect at a Night Club - pretty bad. The eggs and hamburger were OK, but the fries were inedible!






131 West 3rd St.


New York, NY 10012


212-475-8592

Sunday, November 19, 2006

We go back to school!?

Any topics that interest us. There's a lot to choose from. We've taken courses at NYU, museums, and the 92nd St Y. We even joined a private library, the Mercantile because they have discussion groups about books. Sometimes joined by friends, most often Ellen and Al Sharfstein (he's also on an extended sabbatical). One of the more interesting things we discovered was a group called One Day University. They had the idea to run a one day series of lectures featuring world class professors from Ivy League schools. The target audience was Baby-Boomers like ourselves who might be interested in topics they couldn't get out of the daily papers. It was inspired by the orientations that schools do for parents telling them a bit about what their kids will be studying.

This is the second "semester" for the program, the first having taken place in the spring. This time around there were 300 people at the session and they've added sites in New Jersey, Connecticut and Florida.

The day is just right with a total of 5 sessions of varied topics interspersed with refreshment and lunch breaks. Lectures complete with audio visuals and sometimes handouts are always concluded with a question period. My own personal favourites are the more obsure topics. Like the discussion of "Resilience" and how it impacts peoples ability to succeed. Or the discussion of the Imperial Presidency which included a good discussion of the Constitution and the Founding Fathers views of "Separation of Powers". In short, let's make sure they're at each others throats and can't do too much. Kind of like our own view that a divided government between the two parties is the best antidote to over-reach.

There was one 'miss' this time, but on the whole, topics were informative and stimulating and both felt it was a day well spent.

COURSE SCHEDULE AND PROFESSORS

9:00am - 10:00am
Psychology: The Science of Human Resilience
Andrew Shatté, University of Pennsylvania Most Popular Teacher Award

10:15am - 11:15am
American Studies: The Dawn of Cinema and the Transformation of America
Charles Musser, Yale University Film Department Co-Chair and Director
As part of our "extended sabbatical" we are always looking for speakers, programs, courses.

11:30am - 12:30am
Literature: Fairy Tale Culture in Modern Life
Marie Tatar, Harvard University Dean for the Humanities

12:30 - 1:30
Lunch Break

1:30 - 2:30
Sociology: Crime and Punishment 2006
Devah Pager, Princeton University Professor and Fulbright Grant Winner

2:45 - 3:45
Political Science: George W. Bush, the Imperial President?
Richard Pious. Department of Political Science, Barnard College, Columbia University, author of The American Presidency

4:00 - 4:30
Reception



One Day University

Tuesday, November 14, 2006

We go Mexican!


We went to this exceptionally good Mexican restaurant on our first venture back into the world of New York eating. It seemed like the perfect "we're home!" kind of place. It shares a chef (Sandoval) and ownership with Maya, another fine Mexican restaurant on First Avenue and 64th Street where we've enjoyed some fine meals.

The upstairs dining room feels like an exclusive beachside hacienda. Palm trees sculpted onto the walls, straw paddles roatating along the tall, angled off-white ceiling.

I started with "Ostiones Pampano" - cornmeal crusted oysters with black bean~mango tomato~chile and chipotle vinaigrette. Chris had "Ensalada Mixta ~ mixed greens, and avocado with a cilantro~lime vinaigrette (we've been salad-deprived for the last six weeks in Paris). The vegetables and citrus dressing were exquisitely fresh.

For the main course I had "Huachinango" ~ a whole baby red snapper with cactus~tomato salad and tomato-chile. It had been de-boned, rounded out, and stuffed with the cactus salad. I loved it. Chris had the swordfish special which this night was a piece of perfectly grilled fillet cut round and placed on a bed of julienned veggies surrounded by fresh diced mango. A bowl of fried plantain was the perfect accompanyment for both our dishes.

We shared an "Arroz con Leche", rice pudding that was undistinguished. The Margaritas on the otherhand were so good we had TWO!

Our only complaint was the service felt a little rushed. They didn't ruch the service, as soon as you finished a plate there was a server to whisk it away. Maybe a little too efficient!

Pampano
209 E. 49th St.(bet. 2nd & 3rd Aves.)
Manhattan, NY 10017
212-751-4545

Zagats says..
Co-owned by Placido Domingo and chef Richard Sandoval, this “classy” Midtown Mexican “hits the high notes” with an “exceptional” “coastal” menu displaying a “mastery” of “creative seafood”; with a “chic”, “airy” space and “(maybe too) attentive” service, it elicits many a “gracias” as a “distinctive” “change of pace.”

Sunday, November 05, 2006

Jazz at the Club Lionel Hampton in Paris

Last night we went to the Jazz club at the Meridien Hotel in the Port Maillot area near l'Etoile at l'Arc de Triomphe. I had first gone to this club with my friend Robert Crief from my days at Otis (the company, not the house). It is a medium-sized night club that has live music every night beginning at 10:30.


Last night there was a four piece band and singer (called Air Swing and Fire????) featuring Cole Porter tunes. It was Sunday night and they were about half full. We were in the second row of tables. It couldn't have been more perfect -in Paris - Cole Porter - songs in English; I could understand! We were in heaven.


The club has a 25 E minimum (generally, the price of the first drink). That's for the evening, not the set. After that the prices drop to a more reasonable level. We stayed for about 2 hours. I can never understand why NY has no places like this.




Le Jazz Club Lionel Hampton
Hotel Meridien Etoile
81 Blvd. Gouvion Saint Cyr,

75015 Paris.

Tel: 01 40 68 30 42

.

Saturday, November 04, 2006

Stella Maris - our best meal of the trip

This year it seems that Christina and I are eating out less, especially in 'Michelin-starred' restaurants. I think that we've been through the frenzy of having to try all the great restaurants and now look to discover the perfect place for a good evening meal. More often we decide to stay in and enjoy a bottle of wine, some cheese and a simple terrine. It's not that we don't like going out. We really enjoy a great restaurant and meal. Its just that we've decided we can do without the really mediocre places. We'd rather spend a little more (or a lot) for a memorable evening.

Last night we ate at Stella Maris a 'one-star' Michelin rated spot. We'd been there before about 3 years ago and remembered thinking that from the outside it was pretty undistinguished. Well, let me just say, the decore may be simple, but the food is fabulous. From start to finish we didn't have a single complaint (well maybe there was the unpleasantness of the American 'salesperson' at the next table talking so loudly we wished we could have stuffed a sock in his mouth). We tried not to let this dampen our spirits because he wasn't a bad guy, just loud and a little full of himself. Our food on the other hand was mouthwatering. Christina started with a terrine of ris de veau (pancreas), and mushrooms served with, truffled mashed potato (just a spoonful) and cepes (mushrooms). Paul enjoyed the house specialty of Millefeuille de Thon Rouge (layers of raw tuna with eggplant). We followed this with a Tourte de Gibier (really a sort of Beefwellington) but instead of beef, made with a variety of game meats including hare and pheasant. This was served with a rich brown sauce, beets, mashed potato and a green salad. Christina's Pomarde (female pigeon!) was perfectly done atop a choucroute (wrapped cabbage leaves), a rosti potato and some green beans topped with a slice of fresh foie gras (her favorite). It was a perfect 10 all round leaving us not wanting dessert else we spoil the memory of the meal we'd just eaten. Coffee was perfectly served with chocolate madeleines, crystalized orange peels and other little sweets. We'll definitely return!

ZAGATS says...
Tateru Yoshino – a remarkable chef who trained with the likes of Robuchon and Gagnaire – brings creativity and a Japanese mastery of technique to Classic French cuisine in his small place in the 8th; gourmets grin his interpretation of such national treasures as tête de veau (veal head, a French traditional dish we will never have it again anywhere) and lièvre (wild hare) à la royale is irreproachable, the service exceptional and a successful recent face-lift has warmed the formerly cold decor; given all this, prices aren’t so bad.

Stella Maris
4, rue Arsène Houssaye
Paris, France 75008
01 42 89 16 22

The French Resistance and German Occupation

The order from de Gaulle establishing the Free French and the resistance in 1940.

Three galleries and six rooms present the adventure of Free France, the manuscripts of the General de Gaulle, the action of the resistance, the tragic world of the concentration camps. Showcases contain authentic souvenirs of fighters, uniforms, weapons, clandestine press, transmitters and relics from the camps.


Hotel Les Invalides

Musée de l'Ordre de la Liberation
51 bis, boulevard de Latour-Maubourg ,

75007 Paris

47 05 04 10

Parking in Paris

Friday, November 03, 2006

We found this new restaurant that really does a real BBQ.

Some Better Experiences in Paris

Some better experiences in Paris

After our early disappointments (see http://restchallenge.blogspot.com/) we buckled down and seriously considered where we would be eating. In general, we avoid Michelin 2 and 3 star restaurants as painfully expensive and overly formal (both a result of the Michelin grading standards). A recent development has been the opening of more informal bistros by famous chefs that do not try to meet the Michelin standards. L'Atelier Maitre Albert, that disappointed us last week, is from Guy Savoy. We will be trying several more over the next few weeks.


Le Florimond is a thoroughly enjoyable restaurant in the 7th, near the Invalides. This is not an area we go to frequently because I don't like the ambiance as it's the HQ for many government offices. However, the review of this restaurant was good in both Michelin and Zagats. The restaurant is small and the staff was just delightful, a good sense of humor and repartee.


Overall this has been our best dining experience thus far. I started with a excellent foie gras and chicken giblets with salad. It was delicious and the salad was fresh (not always true in Paris, the French are not lovers of green vegetables). Chris had a mushroom and escargot terrine topped with cepes in a cream sauce. Delicious!


For the main course, Chris had "Chou Farci" (stuffed cabbage, there's no accounting for taste). It was quite good, and just like her grandma's. I had a much more traditional Perdreau (partridge) in a delicious stew. The bread was great and we had a very nice Burgundy (Beaune). The person beside us had an "assiette du chocolate" which looked like heaven for the chocolate lovers out there. The menu can be had for 35E.


An added bit of fun was a splendid view of the twinkling Eiffel tower viewed down the rue St. Dominique. The buildings on either side framed the tower perfectly.


Le Florimond

19, av de la Motte-Picquet
Paris 7, France
01 45 55 40 38




Le Christine is a delightful small bistro in an old Parisian house near the Odeon. Service is good and friendly in the packed small rooms. The buzz is definitely ���tourist���. The kitchen is open behind glass and it���s amazing that they can deliver beautifully prepared dishes to such a large crowd. If you go, ask to be seated in the back room, hopefully next to the window by the courtyard.


My starter, a vegetable tart, was excellent. Chris had a warm goat cheese on toast (she���s a sucker for warm goat cheese). Mine was better! (Only in his opinion!)

We shared a beautifully prepared whole bass in a salt crust served with a side of mashed potatoes (a Chris favorite). Unusually, we shared dessert (an orange souffl��) that was outstanding. I only wished we had ordered two. Our meal was complimentd by a bottle of Sancerre.


Christine (Le)

Zagat Review

Off the beaten path and oozing charm. Near the Odeon.

1, rue Christine
Paris 6 , France
01 40 51 71 64




Le Petit Pontoise is a wonderful Parisian bistro in the Latin Quarter, about a ten minute walk from our apartment. They specialize in French 'comfort food' if you can believe that. It's a small room and always crowded but the staff is friendly and helpful (everything is listed on blackboards around the room).


Christina started with a warm fig stuffed with roquefort cheese on a bed of greens (not all that fresh) and I had sauteed mushrooms (girolles) and garlic (lots of garlic!). We followed with scallops sauteed on a medley of vegetables. My Magret de Canard (duck breast) with roasted potatoes came in it's own casserole. Both were excellent. Our wine this evening was a Beaujolais (Morgon 2005).


The people at the next table were visiting from Minnesota (!) and we had nothing in common with them except the language and a love of Paris. They were both consultants working for the non-profit sector. He takes 100 mile bike rides, hikes, marathons and mountain climbs. Fortunately, they also eat! It was a fun evening, sharing good food, favourite places to wander and shops we have each enjoyed.


Petit Pontoise (Le)

Zagat Review

Wow. exclaim enthusiasts of this wonderful, unspoiled Parisian bistro in the Latin Quarter

9, rue de Pontoise
Paris , France
01 43 29 25 20


A Parisian feast!

Thursday, November 02, 2006

A visit to the Musee Picasso


The Musée Picasso is situated in the Marais in the heart of Paris. It is the largest Picasso collection in the world, including several thousand paintings, sculptures, drawings, ceramics, engraving, and even poetry. After his death in 1973, many of Picasso's works went to the French state in settlement of taxes. These are "Picasso's Picassos," not necessarily his most famous works, but rather the paintings and sculptures he kept and valued most. It also covers the artists personal collection of work by friends and influences such as Matisse, Braque, Cézanne, and Rousseau.



It is a relatively small and manageable museum and we go every time we are in Paris. The only drawback are the crowds. We were there on a Thursday afternoon in November and it was crowded! On the other hand, I am always fascinated by how much we learn each time we go about the various periods and genres of his life. I started by "knowing" that I liked his more classical work and drawings and did not like the Cubist or Surrealist works. However, each time I see them and listen carefully to the Audio-Guide, I grow to really like specific works - although mostly the later Surrealist works.




This special exhibit, from the collection of a German-American dealer/collector named HEINZ BERGGRUEN included several hundred new works that we had never seen before (mostly from the Berlin Museum). The painting at right, The Yellow Pullover, is a good example. It is a painting of the photographer/activist/lover Dora Maar. You can really see (after listening to ten minutes of explanation) what she "looked" like and how he saw her. The almost armor-like sweater, the searching eyes, the tense hands, the beautiful hair. But most importantly, you grow to like her and feel you know her.



By the way, this makes the third exhibit we've seen this year of the collected works of a dealer. I wonder if that's a coincidence? It also makes you wonder how the dealers do business that they are able to accumulate such enormous, and valuable, collections. Maybe the artists are right not to trust them.


5 r. de Thorigny </DIV>


Paris- 75003
Telephone: 01 42 71 25 21

Why we go to Paris - for our health!

Red wine holds key to health

November 2, 2006
Yes, Red Wine Holds Answer. Check Dosage.
By NICHOLAS WADE
Can you have your cake and eat it? Is there a free lunch after all, red wine included? Researchers at the Harvard Medical School and the National Institute on Aging report that a natural substance found in red wine, known as resveratrol, offsets the bad effects of a high-calorie diet in mice and significantly extends their lifespan.
Their report, published electronically yesterday in Nature, implies that very large daily doses of resveratrol could offset the unhealthy, high-calorie diet thought to underlie the rising toll of obesity in the United States and elsewhere, if people respond to the drug as mice do.
Resveratrol is found in the skin of grapes and in red wine and is conjectured to be a partial explanation for the French paradox, the puzzling fact that people in France enjoy a high-fat diet yet suffer less heart disease than Americans.
The researchers fed one group of mice a diet in which 60 percent of calories came from fat. The diet started when the mice, all males, were a year old, which is middle-aged in mouse terms. As expected, the mice soon developed signs of impending diabetes, with grossly enlarged livers, and started to die much sooner than mice fed a standard diet.
Another group of mice was fed the identical high-fat diet but with a large daily dose of resveratrol (far larger than a human could get from drinking wine). The resveratrol did not stop them from putting on weight and growing as tubby as the other fat-eating mice. But it averted the high levels of glucose and insulin in the bloodstream, which are warning signs of diabetes, and it kept the mice’s livers at normal size.
Even more striking, the substance sharply extended the mice’s lifetimes. Those fed resveratrol along with the high- fat diet died many months later than the mice on high fat alone, and at the same rate as mice on a standard healthy diet. They had all the pleasures of gluttony but paid none of the price.
Scientists have long known that a moderate intake of alcohol, and red wine in particular, is associated with a lowered risk of heart disease and other benefits. More recently, scientists began to suspect resveratrol had particularly powerful effects and began investigating its role in lifespan.
The researchers, led by David Sinclair and Joseph Baur at the Harvard Medical School and by Rafael de Cabo at the National Institute on Aging, also tried to estimate the effect of resveratrol on the mice’s physical quality of life. They gauged how well the mice could walk along a rotating rod before falling off, a test of their motor skills. The mice on resveratrol did better as they grew older, ending up with much the same staying power on the rod as mice fed a normal diet.
The researchers hope their findings will have relevance to people too. Their study shows, they conclude, that orally taken drugs “at doses achievable in humans can safely reduce many of the negative consequences of excess caloric intake, with an overall improvement in health and survival.”
Several experts said that people wondering if they should take resveratrol should wait until more results were in, particularly from safety tests in humans. Another caution is that the theory about why resveratrol works is still unproved.
“It’s a pretty exciting area, but these are early days,” said Dr. Ronald Kahn, president of the Joslin Diabetes Center in Boston.
Information about resveratrol’s effects on human metabolism should be available a year or so, Dr. Kahn said, adding, “Have another glass of pinot noir — that’s as far as I’d take it right now.”
The mice were fed a hefty dose of resveratrol, 24 milligrams per kilogram of body weight. Red wine has about 1.5 to 3 milligrams of resveratrol per liter, so a 150-lb person would need to drink 750 to 1,500 bottles of red wine a day to get such a dose.
Dr. Richard Hodes, director of the National Institute on Aging, which helped support the study, also said that people should wait for the results of safety testing. Substances that are safe and beneficial in small doses, like vitamins, sometimes prove to be harmful when taken in high doses, Dr. Hodes said.
One person who is not following this prudent advice, however, is Dr. Sinclair, the chief author of the study. He has long been taking resveratrol, though at a dose of only five milligrams per kilogram. Mice given that amount in a second feeding trial have shown similar, but less pronounced, results as those on the 24-milligram-a-day dose, he said.
Dr. Sinclair has had a physician check his metabolism, because many resveratrol preparations contain possibly hazardous impurities, but so far no ill effects have come to light. His wife, his parents, and “half my lab” are also taking resveratrol, he said.
Dr. Sinclair declined to name his source of resveratrol. Many companies sell the substance, along with claims that rivals’ preparations are inactive. One such company, Longevinex, sells an extract of red wine and knotweed that contains an unspecified amount of resveratrol. But each capsule is equivalent to “5 to 15 5-ounce glasses of the best red wine,” the company’s Web site asserts.
Dr. Sinclair is the founder of a company, Sirtris Pharmaceuticals, that has developed several chemicals intended to mimic the role of resveratrol but at much lower doses. Sirtris has begun clinical trials of one of these compounds, an improved version of resveratrol, with the aim of seeing if it helps control glucose levels in people with diabetes.
“We believe you cannot reach therapeutic levels in man with ordinary resveratrol,” said Dr. Christoph Westphal, the company’s chief executive.
Behind the resveratrol test is a considerable degree of scientific theory, some of it well established and some yet to be proved. Dr. Sinclair’s initial interest in resveratrol had nothing to do with red wine. It derived from work by Leonard Guarente of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, who in 1995 found a gene that controlled the longevity of yeast, a single-celled fungus.
Dr. Guarente and Dr. Sinclair, who had come from Australia to work as a postdoctoral student in Dr. Guarente’s laboratory, discovered the mechanism by which the gene makes yeast cells live longer. The gene is known as Sir-2 in yeast, sir standing for silent information regulator, and its equivalent in mice and humans is called SIRT-1.
Dr. Guarente then found that the gene’s protein needed a common metabolite to activate it, and he developed the theory that the gene, by sensing the level of metabolic activity, mediates a phenomenon of great interest to researchers in aging, the greater life span caused by caloric restriction.
Researchers have known since 1935 that mice fed a calorically restricted diet — one with all necessary vitamins and nutrients but 40 percent fewer calories — live up to 50 percent longer than mice on ordinary diets.
This low-calorie-provoked increase in longevity occurs in many organisms and seems to be an ancient survival strategy. When food is plentiful, live in the fast lane and breed prolifically. When famine strikes, switch resources to body maintenance and live longer so as to ride out the famine.
Most people find it impossible to keep to a diet with 40 percent fewer calories than usual. So if caloric restriction really does make people as well as mice live longer — which is plausible but not yet proved — it would be desirable to have some drug that activated the SIRT-1 gene’s protein, tricking it into thinking that days of famine lay ahead.
In 2003 Dr. Sinclair, by then in his own laboratory, devised a way to test a large number of chemicals for their ability to mimic caloric restriction in people by activating SIRT-1. The champion was resveratrol, already well known for its possible health benefits.
Critics point out that resveratrol is a powerful chemical that acts in many different ways in cells. The new experiment, they say, does not prove that resveratrol negated the effects of a high-calorie diet by activating SIRT-1. Indeed, they are not convinced that resveratrol activates SIRT-1 at all.
“It hasn’t really been clearly shown, the way a biochemist would want to see it, that resveratrol can activate sirtuin,” said Matt Kaeberlein, a former student of Dr. Guarente’s who does research at the University of Washington in Seattle. Sirtuin is the protein produced by the SIRT-1 gene.
Dr. Sinclair said experiments at Sirtris had essentially wrapped up this point. But they have not yet been published, so under the rules of scientific debate he cannot use them to support his position. In his Nature article he therefore has to concede that “Whether resveratrol acts directly or indirectly through Sir-2 in vivo is currently a subject of debate.”
Given that caloric restriction forces a trade-off between fertility and lifespan, resveratrol might be expected to reduce fertility in mice. Dr. Sinclair said he saw no such infertility in his experiment, but he said that might be because the mice were not on a low-calorie diet.
If resveratrol does act by prodding the sirtuins into action, then there will be much interest in the new class of sirtuin activators now being tested by Sirtris. Dr. Westphal, the company’s chief executive, has no practical interest in the longevity-promoting effects of sirtuins and caloric restriction.
For the Food and Drug Administration, if for no one else, aging is not a disease and death is not an end-point. The F.D.A. will approve only drugs that treat diseases in measurable ways, so Dr. Westphal hopes to show that his sirtuin activators will improve the indicators of specific diseases, starting with diabetes.
“We think that if we can harness the benefits of caloric restriction, we wouldn’t simply have ways of making people live longer, but an entirely new therapeutic strategy to address the diseases of aging,” Dr. Guarente said.

Tuesday, October 31, 2006

Le Cirque d'Hiver


I'm a real circus junky so when Irv and Iris recommended we go to "Le Cirque d'Hiver" I didn't miss a beat and reserved seats - front row and center - even though we weren't planning on kidnapping a little kid off the street to bring along! On the appointed day, there we were amidst a zillion kids (it's holiday week here), parents and sundry other folk.

This is the winter home of the European travelling circus. It's an opulent permanent "tent" complete with a full orchestra, clever announcers and showgirls who entertained the audience as the runners prepared for the next act. It's a one ring circus a little like our own "Big Apple Circus" in NYC.

We had a lot of fun watching the snowy tigers perform not more then 3 feet from our seats! There were the usual 'jongleurs', 'trapezistes, 'chevaux' (dancing horses) and of course, the clowns. We enjoyed everything. Chris was thrilled to be able to understand some of the jokes. We especially enjoyed a 'ventriloque' who made you think a live dog was talking and the juggler who worked with 6 white balls that he bounced on the floor so fast it looked like they were attached to strings. There were also two amazing Chinese 'equilabristes' who twisted their bodies into unbelievable shapes while they balanced on each other and twirled parasols and cloth disks from every part of their bodies. At one point one girl was bent over backwards on the floor on one foot and hand while spinning disks from the others. The other girl was standing on her hand on her hip while twirling disks from her other three extremeties. It was remarkable!

At right is a Toulouse-Lautrec painting of the Cirque from the 1880's.

The whole experience was magic--when the lights dimmed every kid had twirling light-wands that made the room sparkle (Paul wouldn't let me get one).

Le Cirque d'Hiver
110 rue Amelot
Paris 11


















































































































Toulouse-Lautrec Painting of Cirque d'hiver












Saturday, October 28, 2006

Parking - Un Sport de Payee

Anyone visiting Paris will be amazed by the skill and expertise with which residents park in this city. There's no space too small or inaccessible for the determined. Parking is a creative activity where the sport seems to be in how many vehicles can fit on any given street. Here there seems to be pride in squeezing a car into a spot that requires 'kissing' the bumpers of the car in front or in back of you. Drivers sometimes require several minutes to maneuver into position holding up traffic on the narrow streets. It's surprising how patient people are, perhaps they identify with those parking! For anyone spotting a space, it's not unthinkable to witness them drive diagonally through traffic to secure the coveted spot! Pedestrians beware! It's no wonder that many sidewalks are lined with stanchions or poles to avoid assertive drivers pulling right up onto the sidewalks. Mind you, this doesn't seem to inhibit those with scooters or motorbikes. It is not uncommon to have to scramble to get out of the way of someone on a scooter on the sidewalk! Please look at the picture at the right. The flower pots are at the edge of the sidewalk. The yellow truck is driving in the road. The cars are parked on the sidewalk. The scooter is driving on the sidewalk. The woman with the baby carriage is trying to not get hit.

Believe it or not, they have traffic police in Paris who are supposed to give tickets for illegal parking. But we can not figure out when they ticket and why. We think these may be the same guys that issue tickets to those who fail to stoop and scoop! We have seen a car booted but we expect this is for extreme cases where a car has been left for a very long time blocking the road.

Our worst dinner in Paris - Chez Omar

This is a "couscous" restaurant". One of the best-rated in Paris. Zagats loves it (see comments below). We were sitting between two tables of Brits who recommended the Couscous "Royale" for two and the Legumes (vegetarian). We should have known better. The Royale was sort of a "mixed grill of all the meats they serve. The vegetables were primarily carrots, chickpeas, zucchini and celery.


It was the worst meal we have had in Paris in years. The meat tasted like it had been boiled with the fat providing the only flavor. The only exception were two lambchops that had been grilled and were tasty. The six lamb sausages were so salty we couldn't them. The vegetables, not having any fat, were boiled beyond any taste or texture.

We did have fresh strawberries for dessert that were good.

I can't imagine where Zagats got its ratings. I can only believe tourists were drawn by the large portions at reasonable prices.

Chez Omar
47, rue de Bretagne
Paris 11, France
01 42 72 36 26
For “couscous at its most trendy”, check out this “casual” “fashion-industry favorite” in the 11th, where plates are “piled high” with “pleasant” Moroccan morsels, the “jovial” owner makes “you feel like a local on your first” visit and the “waiters never stop joking around”; the place is usually “packed” and they “don’t take reservations”, but “don’t be turned off by the line that often extends out the door” – it’s “worth the wait.”

Friday, October 27, 2006

French Lessons

During our stay this year, I decided to spend some time in the classroom working on my French. Each morning I spend an hour and a half with a a teacher and a group of three. The groups have changed some over the time I've been here. The cuurent teacher, Arnaud is young, patient and a force to be reckoned with--she does NOT like to hear an English word being spoken. At first, I felt I was making steady progress. It's now the end of my fourth week, and I feel I've 'hit the wall' so to speak. Nothing that comes out of my mouth seems correct; I mix up my verbs and pronouns, and have a thing about using 'sur' when I should be using 'dans'! It's enough to make me want to 'jette mes papiers dans la rue'! One of the daily exercises is to listen to a tape and report on what was said, I'm hopeless!--I hear a completely different story then anyone else. And Paul tells me that this is how I am in English--can you believe he said that???? The other students, currently a young 23 year old from London and an equally young person from Hong Kong are, I seem to be doing better then me. I try not to be too hard on myself; they are both taking two classes a day; and Vickie is living with a French family. BUT! Je ne parle pas bien! Or at least not as 'bien' as I would like. The group teases me about my "Franglais". When I can't think of the word in French, I substitute English! It's always worked for me when speaking German to my mother! I've got one more week and then it will be time to 'retourne aux l'Etats-Unis'. I'm hoping not lose what I've learned before we return next year, so let me know if you speak French and would like to 'parler'.

A bientot,

Christina

L'Orangerie reopens after six years

We were fortunate to be in Paris when the l'Orangerie Museum finally opened after six years of renovations. The name refers to the original purpose of the building to store the Tuileries Garden citrus trees during the winter.



-----------------------
The collection of Impressionist paintings of art dealer Paul Guillaime has been moved to the basement to open up the top floor to allow natural light to bathe the Monet Water Lillies. It includes impressionist works from Cézanne, Renoir, Picasso, Soutine, Derain and Henri Rousseau and others. We were particluarly interested because we had recently seen an exhibit, at the Met in NY, of the collection of another dealer in Impressionist works, Ambroise Vollard. The quality of the collections and the complex relationships they had with the artists they represented were faschinating. Both started with relatively little money but accumulated large fortunes and incredible art collections - to the envy of their clients.




On the ground floor, two large oval rooms are devoted to the fabulous Water Lilies by Claude Monet. Each room contains eight canvases that surround the oval room with a vision of the famous waterlilies at his home in Giverny. A major part of the renovation was the removal of the second floor of the museum which had been added in the 1960's and blocked the natural light that Monet had cherished. Because of the large size of the paintings (painted for these rooms), they could not be moved and were left in place during the six years of renovations. The curator was quoted as saying:

"The most important thing for us was the restoration of natural light,
which was so fundamental to Monet. The study of light is the basis of the
Impressionist movement, so we wanted to restore that as the essence of this
building, which was once described as the Sistine Chapel of Impressionism".


Musee l'Orangerie
Place de la Concorde

Thursday, October 26, 2006

Our new Paris home (for six weeks!)

One of our most important tasks each year before we leave Paris is to decide on our apartment for the next year. This is a major task as the number of neighborhoods, apartments and price ranges is enormous. Each year we get a little better, and a little bit more discriminating, in where we stay. The first year we picked the apartment after meeting someone at Monet's house in Givernais. That apartment, in the Rue du Tresor in the Marais, was wonderful and we still see Irv and Iris when we are back in Paris. Our first apartment and neighborhood will always be a special place for us.

But, each year as we go back, we try to find something a little bit different and/or in a different neighbourhood. Chris spends hours at the computer scouting possibilities. By now, this will be our fifth year, we have pretty well determined our priorities;
  • A "Parisian" apartment in a nice neighborhood in proximity to a nice Cafe, Boulangerie and Tabac (for the newspaper) - we want to be in a place that is clearly Parisian in feel
  • A comfortable bed - queen or king size
  • A shower - the French like tubs
  • High speed internet access - a must for me
  • Comfortable chairs where you can read - really important when you don't watch TV
  • A central neighborhood - we like to walk everywhere
  • Fully equipped kitchen, DW, Clothes washer - Chris must be able to cook and wash our clothes.

These are probably not surprising. What may be more surprising is what is not a priority for us,

  • An elevator - frequently really old, but desirable; buildings cannot esthetically be fitted for elevators. Parisians accept this. Often elevators are so small that our bodies touch on all sides--definitely not something Christina goes in willingly!
  • A second bedroom. Nice, but not required. However, the last two apartments have had two bedrooms and bathrooms.

Not surprisingly, everything is available, it just costs more. So, rather than getting cheaper as we get more experienced, it gets more expensive. Chris spends some time almost everyday, on-line looking for apartments and arranging for us to visit them. This year we visited six apartments before agreeing on one that seems to be very special. It's a 17th century "Hotel Particulare" (not sure what this means exactly, but it's old and special). It's on the banks of the Seine facing the city.



All Parisian apartments have big doors on the street side. If your lucky, it will have nice courtyard (rather than parking and recycling bins). This aparment has an attractive courtyard but not one that's usable.

One of the things we're most excited about is it has a lovely little library off the living room where you can work or read. The panelling is original and aparently installed by the same craftsman that did the White House! Not having seen that room, I'm not sure whether that's a recommendation - but it looks beautiful.

Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner...


Life in Paris has been a little different this year because each morning I go off for a French lesson leaving Paul sleeping in bed. In past years, our usual routine was for one of us to fetch the newspaper and morning ‘baguette’ while the other made coffee. Breakfast can be the pricey at a nice Café, so we like to do it ourselves. Compare the cost of an entire French bread (no more then 1.05 E.) with 17.50 E. for 2 cups of coffee and a baguette with butter and jam at a Café.

Here on the Island, a great spot for breakfast or a light meal any time of the day, is “Le Flore de L’Ile” located at the top of the street overlooking the Pont de Tournelle and the back of Notre Dame. It’s a wonderful place to watch people; and it seems to be a favorite kissing corner! The menu offers everything from a near perfect omelet, the French favorite, Berthillon ice cream and a great cup of tea or coffee. The food is fresh and served by friendly staff who bring your coffee with delicious dark chocolate kisses.
Le Flore en l'Ile
42, quai d'Orléans
Paris 2, France 75004
01 43 29 88 27

If you’ve had breakfast (especially at 10 o’clock) you really only need a little snack in the afternoon to tide you over to dinner. We love the comfort of a wine bar where you can sample a variety of vintages, share a plate of cheese and/or Charcuterie (sliced smoked meats) and soak up the atmosphere. We’ve been to several, but especially like a casual place called “Juveniles”. This tiny little spot has less then a dozen tables for 2 with wine crates stacked along the walls. Wines are available by the glass with selections from France, Australia and even California Zinfandels. They don’t serve any French cheeses, but the selection is good, the salads fresh and you can share tapas style meals that include sausages and smoked meats. We’ve found the food to be good, the prices reasonable and you can even carry off a bottle of wine. It’s the perfect way to end an afternoon.
47, rue de Richelieu
Paris 1, France
01 42 97 46 49
Our favorite new dinner spot is Le Reminet, located within walking distance of our apartment. They require reservations and it’s buzzing each night. The service is slow even for French standards, but once you settle in with a bottle of wine it’s worth the wait. On our first visit, starters included roasted quail served on a bed of mixed greens (delicious) and a carrot soup which was tasty but not as good as the quail. For the main course, Paul opted for Perdreau (partridge, he’s very fowl lately!) which again was also roasted and served with turnip and a triangle of rosti potatoes that he had to fight me for! My fish fillet (mystery fish colcosse?) was beautifully prepared served with a light creamy sauce along side a creamy risotto and sautéed fennel. As usual, we skipped dessert but saw some incredible chocolate things, soufflés and poached figs that looked wonderful. They offered some interesting “vin do moment” and we enjoyed a nice Cote de Rhone.
3, rue des Grands-Degrés
Paris 5, France
01 44 07 04 24

Sunday, October 22, 2006

Some new restaurants and an old favorite

Juvéniles
47, rue de Richelieu
Paris 1, France
01 42 97 46 49

Réminet
3, rue des Grands-Degrés
Paris 5, France
01 44 07 04 24

Flore en l'Ile (Le)
42, quai d'Orléans
Paris 2, France 75004
01 43 29 88 27

Friday, October 20, 2006

What's wrong (or right) with this picture

Christina and I have often written about how much we enjoy walking in Paris. This year, Chris brought a pedometer and she's averaging almost 5 miles a day. That sounds like a lot (it is) but what you may not realize is that half of that distance is because we often get lost going somewhere. For those used to a simple grid system, the 'snail' grid of Paris can be a nightmare.


If you look at the map of NYC on the left, you notice that the streets are neat and orderly. They basically follow a commonsense grid with Avenues going North and South and Streets going East and West. Normally, the streets start at one river and end at the other. The avenues continue to a logical end (water or a Park). There are exceptions in lower Manhattan but this is the general rule. The outer boroughs follow different rules but there are still rules.






The map at the right represents Paris. Streets are not in a grid, but converge in lovely squares with Cafes and parks. Only a few key streets traverse the city, usually following an arc rather than a straight line. Street names are assigned to commemorate people or events.

This might still be manageable if it wasn't that they've been doing this for 700 hundred years. As a result, in the Centre Ville area, streets change names every chance they get. It's rare for a local street to keep its name for more than a few blocks. And, unlike New York, where these commemorative names exist mostly as decorative signs under the "real" street sign, these names are the only names used. There are literally thousands of street names. The 'Plan de Paris' has a 148 PAGES. That's approximately 6,000 names! for a boy from NYC that's culture shock!

For two people as "directionally-challenged" as Christina and I, it's a nightmare. We each have a map (really a book - the "pocket version has 96 pages!). Even with a map we frequently get lost. One of the hardest lessons to learn is that, because the streets are at odd angles to each other, you can't "go around the corner". It may take you 500 meters away from where you were (1/3 of a mile) with no easy way back. We've noticed in recent years that even the cab drivers have GPS! As difficult as it is, after four years, we're getting to know our way around the neighbourhoods--at least the ones where we've stayed. Christina manages to get back and forth to school and the market without any problems (at least none that she's sharing with me)!




































































Thursday, October 19, 2006

Jazz in Paris

Chris and I love going to Cabarets in New York and when we're travelling. We enjoy the relative intimacy of being close to performers who like to have a 'conversation' with the audience. It's always been frustrating to us that, outside of New York there are often more bars and clubs with live entertainment . Sure, the big name performers (e.g. Eartha Kitt, Andrea Marcovicci, Michael Feinstein, John Pizzarelli) all come to the famous NY cabarets (Oak Room, Cafe Carlyle, the new Dizzy's Club Coca Cola). But, while we enjoy going to them, we are envious of the more informal (and seriously less expensive) venues we experience elsewhere.

There are many more Jazz clubs in Paris than in New York. As a result, many performers in the US have performed in Paris early in their careers. There may not have gotten a lot of money, but they could appear before an audience. We wrote earlier about our evening at Les Fous des L'Ile near our apartment. But one of our longtime favorites is a little bit fancier - Le Bilboquet, near St. Germain des Pres. This small, intimate, room decorated with red velvet walls and chairs (perhaps to resemble a cat-house) draws a nightly capacity crowd. As is typical with this type of club the world over, the food is over-priced and under-delivered. But the bar is a different story. There are a number of small (really small) tables with small (really, really, small) chairs arranged around the stage. There is open seating here with no cover charge, and only a one drink minimum. The drinks are expensive (about $25) but you can stay pretty much all night (entertainment starts at 9:00). The limiting factor seems to be how long you can stand the chair! The other night we saw a black African Jazz singer with a three piece band. We were sitting about 10 feet away and really enjoyed it. More often then not, we're next to someone interesting and can share a story or two in French (Chris' is getting better) or English. This is one of our favorite places and we've gone back every year.

Tuesday, October 17, 2006

Being outside in Paris





Christina and I constantly talk about how Paris is an "outside" city like no other. People in Paris seem to use the out of doors as an extension of their inside living space; to meet friends, to eat, to walk, or just to sit and read the paper. The streets and parks are always crowded with people just being - at all hours of the day and into the night.


In New York, living in mid-town we walk to many places, and occasionally eat out when the weather's nice and the place attractive.


In Paris, the reverse is true, you eat outside, at Cafes and Brasseries all year long. They just turn on the heaters! Many small places extend their 'petit' indoor seating area to the out of doors to accomodate twice the numbers possible inside. Outdoor street markets can be found in many neighbourhoods on any given day of the week and there's live outdoor entertainment where ever a crowd might be found (often on selected streets which have been closed off during the weekend).


Here, there are many words to describe how you get about, from 'faire du jogging", to faire une promenade. No matter what the weather, people are out of doors, not only walking but riding their bikes, rollerblading (they close off many streets on Sunday just for this purpose), or strolling along the Boulevards, window shopping or in the many parks found throughout the city. Luxembourg Gardens is packed with families and individuals all day, 7 days a week. We often wonder 'whose minding the store' because it seems that nobody's working especially on a sunny day. Benches line Boulevards and streets and you can find comfortable, even reclining chairs in many of the larger parks. These chairs and benches are often on the periphery of the fountains, gardens and the grass. Here the 'Park Police' ensure that you don't sit on the grass except in small designated areas. Not only can you find places to sit, play or participate in a sport, a bonus is that there are an abundance of clean toilet facilities everywhere.


On Sundays, it seems that all of Paris is outdoors as they promenade up and down the street at selected spots (we don't know how they're selected). Ile Saint Louis is one of those spots. Six days a week it's loaded with tourists, but on Sunday the locals are out and take over the street and the line at the Berthillon ice cream shop often circles the block.


The bottom line is we've adapted and are outside more then in and have logged many miles so far.

Friday, October 06, 2006

BERLIN

So, here we are at the end of a long day of seeing the sights of Berlin. Why Berlin you ask?? Well, this was the only route available to get to Paris, Business Class, using air miles, so we decided to stay a couple of days. Like Paris and New York, Berlin is a great place to walk. Our hotel, the Ritz Carlton is on the Potsdamer Platz, formerly in ‘East Berlin’. East Berlin has been completely rebuilt in the last 10 years and this area, especially, is the site of new, very modern, skyscrapers. Opposite us is the fabulous Sony Center pictured above. It’s a maze of walkways, cafes, cinemas and shops.

Our arrival coincided with the Berlin Marathon which finished just down the road from our hotel. As a result, there was no car access and we had to schlep our suitcases (6 weeks of clothes!) through throngs of well-wishers to our hotel. However, right after we checked in we walked to the finish line area and rewarded ourselves with a glass of ‘Berliner Pils’ and a “wurst”. It always amazes us to watch older people complete a marathon looking less winded then we do after a 45 minute workout! They must have better trainers! It couldn’t be anything we do, or don’t do!

Berlin has changed overwhelmingly in the last 15 years. It was interesting to compare what we each remembered from previous visits (Paul’s last time here was 1976, mine in 1991)! When Paul was here, Berlin was a beleaguered city surrounded by East Germany. You needed a passport to visit the East and it was quite frightening to turn over your passport at “Checkpoint Charlie”. On your return, your car was searched for contraband (or people--who were routinely shot trying to escape). On one trip, Paul’s car was searched on the way in and his Hilton and Playboy magazines confiscated as forbidden propaganda. Paul was upset to see that the famous Church that had been preserved as a bombed hulk as a reminder of the war, had been repaired! It’s still called a memorial, but the roof has been closed in and the ceiling inside repaired (albeit poorly). Only the outside has been left alone. Preventing additional damage from the elements seemed like a poor excuse to drastically change a memorial like that. He thinks right-wing nationalists did it to eliminate one of the few remaining signs of the war.

Chris was here just after the wall came down. The East was a grim, rundown area with little business. Now, it’s the showplace of a proud German Republic with huge new government and private buildings. The government was moved here from Bonn, requiring a huge investment in offices and embassies. All is not perfect, however, the city still has an unemployment rate of 17% and is almost bankrupt from the social costs of supporting the social obligations of the East.

We only had one day to sightsee and took one of those split level busses around the city. One interesting thing that we saw was the new Memorial to the Jewish dead in Europe which was within walking distance of our hotel. It’s a field of hundreds of simple gray slabs of stone {looking like tombs) of varying heights (from flat to 10 feet high), arranged in rows, over rolling hills. You can walk between them but quickly lose sight of each other. It’s eerie, I had a moment of panic when Paul and I got separated—it’s not a place for little children. There are no names listed, nor is there much of a description to let you know where you are. Walking between the rows made people there very quiet. On another visit we plan to go into the underground museum that we missed this time. The ‘hop on’, ‘hop off’ bus tour allowed us to manage our whirlwind tour of the city; wandering around the Reichstag (government seat now), Checkpoint Charlie, the Brandenburg Gate, the Memorial Church and of course a stroll down the famous Ku’damm where we peeked into all the designer shops. We had a late afternoon coffee (which means cake is involved) in an outdoor café at the famous Kempinski Hotel. Here and there we saw pieces of the former ‘Wall’ and tried to imagine what it must have been like to live in a city divided.

While here, we wanted to stick to local ‘German’ food since we were heading to Paris for 6 weeks. That was easier said than done. Other than the traditional ‘wursts’ from street vendors and a Weiner Schnitzel at a pseudo-French brasserie we were unable to find any ‘better’ German restaurants – they were all French or Italian! The beer was good, the bread was better and I will miss the incredible yogurt bar at the hotel.

auf weidersein,

Christina & Paul
September 26, 2006