Oceana Restaurant

When you enter Oceana, you feel like you're on a luxury liner with excellent service to match. The attractive nautical interior and shape of the room feels authentic right down to the water pictured on the outside of the faux windows. The restaurant is operated by the Livano family who also own "Molyvos" and "Abbocato" in the city and one of our favorites, the "City Limits" diner in White Plains where we enjoyed a late lunch after picking up our marriage license.

Oceana has long been one of the best regarded "fish houses" in New York serving American influenced seafood but recently had a change in chef. Ben Pollinger, formerly of Tabla and Union Square Grill (of the Danny Meyer group). While the menu is wonderful with interesting sounding preparations like Stinging Nettle Soup and Roasted Fuji Apple as starters and Pan Roasted Chatam Cod and Tamarind glazed Sablefish, the delivery is still a little uneven.

I started with the 'Roasted Fuji Apple' with a Salad of Sprouted Beans, Jicama, Macadamia Nuts and Quince Banyuls Vinaigrette. It was delicious, unlike anything I have had before. Chris started with really wonderful 'Maine Peekytoe Crab' with Artichokes Three Ways, Favas, Pancetta and Basil.

I followed with the 'Tamarind Glazed Sablefish' with Toasted Spices, Spring Peas and Ramps that I thought were overly ambitious. Chris had the Pan Roasted Chatam Cod with Manila Clams, Fingerling Potatoes, Sausage and Baby Red Mustard Greens. We don't often order cod because of my longtime association with the Italian dried, salted Baccala. But this is a completely different experience.

We had a nice 2004 Puligny Montrachet.

In summary, it was a nice meal but I think they have some work to do to live up to the three course $80 Prix Fixe Menu.

Oceana

55 East 54th Street (bet Madison and Park Ave)

212-759-5941