Sfoglia means great Italian food on the UES

Our 7:00pm class at the 92nd Street Y has made dinnertime a challenge. Not only do we find ourselves having to eat at 5:30, but need to find a location near the Y. We've been pretty lucky so far, but this week we hit the jackpot! For weeks, we'd been hearing the 'buzz' outside a little place right across the street. After peeking in the window we decided to make a reservation for the following Tuesday. We figured reservations at 5:30 would be a snap! The first week they were booked. The next week was booked too. The only thing they had was a seat at the bar! At 5:30! We took it! Figured we'd found the proverbial 'little neighborhood restaurant' that all NYers are looking for...

The very next day. The NEXT day! Frank Bruni reviews it in the Times - gives it 2 stars and a rave review. Now we can't even get into the bar. Who asked him!

Our experience at the restaurant was positive from the beginning. The restaurant is small (it seats about 40, including the bar) but very attractively rustic - with a large, friendly, staff. The large comfortable bar is welcoming and seemed to get the same pleasant service as the tables around us. The restaurant is owned and run by a young husband and wife team, Ron and Colleen Suhanosky who have another restaurant in Nantucket and three young children (one born this week!). Colleen is in charge of desserts and responsible for the creation of the rustic crusty Italian bread that, with an olive oil dip could make a meal on it's own.

The menu is quite modest with only 7 pasta and 4 main courses (plus several specials) but there were a number of items we found interesting. We decided to share the appetizers, ordering an Antipasto and a Pasta. The Antipasto was very unusual and included 'Poulet Gras' (chicken liver) on toast, a variety of grilled vegetables as well as beets with goat cheese. No meats or caponata. It was good, but nothing special. The pasta was Cavatelli with broccoli rabe, and lemon walnut pesto. It was fabulous. Perfectly prepared and the pesto just kissed the pasta without overwhelming it. The pasta would have been plenty for two!

For the main course we both ordered the specialty "Chicken Mattone" which is grilled with garlic and olive oil and then placed under a hot brick to crisp. It was really wonderful! Chris described it as the best chicken she'd ever eaten in a resturant. I thought I'd had chicken just as good, but none better. We had a turnip and prune vegetable dish served at room temperature that Chris thought was good.

They have an extensive list of wines by the glass. We both had a glass of a nice Montepulciano (I might have had 2). We did not have dessert which might have been a mistake given that one of the choices is bread pudding made with the above mentioned wonderful bread.

Overall, a very good restaurant. Just what you hope to find. A new, small, restaurant the serves interesting food at not unreasonable prices. Unfortunately, we'll probably never get in there again.

Sfoglia

1402 Lexington Avenue (at 92nd St.)

212-831-1402