Wednesday, December 26, 2007
Minnette Walters - Fox Evil
Donna Leon - Quietly in Their Sleep
Vikram Chandra - Sacred Games
Sacred Games is a novel as big, ambitious, multi-layered, contradictory, funny, sad, scary, violent, tender, complex, and irresistible as India itself. Steep yourself in this story, enjoy the delicious masala Chandra has created, and you will have an idea of how the country manages to hang together despite age-old hatreds, hundreds of dialects, different religious practices, the caste system, and corruption everywhere. The Game keeps it afloat.
There are more than a half-dozen subplots to be enjoyed, but the main events take place between Inspector Sartaj Singh, a Sikh member of the Mumbai police force, and Ganesh Gaitonde, the most wanted gangster in India. It is no accident that Ganesh is named for the Hindu god of success, the elephant god much revered by Hindus everywhere. By the world's standards he has made a huge success of his life: he has everything he wants. But soon after the novel begins he is holed up in a bomb shelter from which there is no escape, and Sartaj is right outside the door. Ganesh and Sartaj trade barbs, discuss the meaning of good and evil, hold desultory conversations alternating with heated exchanges, and, finally, Singh bulldozes the building to the ground. He finds Ganesh dead of a gunshot wound, and an unknown woman dead in the bunker along with him.
How did it come to this? Of course, Singh has wanted to capture this prize for years, but why now and why in this way? The chapters that follow tell both their stories, but especially chronicle Gaitonde's rise to power. He is a clever devil, to be sure, and his tales are as captivating as those of Scheherezade. Like her he spins them out one by one and often saves part of the story for the reader--or Sartaj--to figure out. He is involved in every racket in India, corrupt to the core, but even he is afraid of Swami Shridlar Shukla, his Hindu guru and adviser. In the story Gaitonde shares with Singh and countless other characters, Vikram Chandra has written a fabulous tale of treachery, a thriller, and a tour of the mean streets of India, complete with street slang
Thursday, December 13, 2007
My Own Book Fund
Over the past year, we've been looking for a way to get more involved in a community project that was both meaningful and fit in with our busy schedule. We've finally found something that we can not only do together, but are totally enthralled with - My Own Book Fund The program was designed to foster reading among kids who don't have access to their own books. This new initiative funds the purchase of books for third grade kids in Manhattan and the South Bronx. Volunteers are assigned to identified schools and meet the third grade students on three different occasions over a period of about six weeks. The first visit is to introduce the program and talk about book ownership and the joy of reading. The second meeting takes place at a local Barnes & Noble store where each child gets to purchase $50 worth of books. About two weeks later, there's a return visit to the classroom to hear reactions of the children about the experience and the books that they purchased. The program is funded primarily by its founder, Burt Freeman, who had the original idea and currently serves approximately 30 schools.
Before we were assigned our "own" school, we shadowed an experienced couple at a school in Mott Haven in the south Bronx. This past week we completed our final visit and are hooked. Seeing 18-25 3rd grade students let loose in a Barnes & Noble is quite an experience. Both Chris and I love books and are really excited about getting these kids started. Watching an intense 8 or 9 year old's eyes open wide as they look at the huge selection is an incredible experience. Deciding between "Captain Underpants" or "Junie B. Jones" and a biography of Rosa Parks or Mohamed Ali can be tough!
Chris really has a way with the kids. Watching her get them organized and talking about their experiences was a revelation! The other couple called her the model for all the volunteers. They just called me Paul.
When we went back to the school to debrief the kids it was really exciting. Each class was unique, ranging from hyper-articulate and involved to shy and struggling to read simple picture books. It was clear that the teachers set the tone and had an impact in the kind of experience the class had. We heard so many great stories a chuckled over some of the 'creative' thank you notes that we received from the kids. Who could not love a note that starts with....."you are so giving, you break my heart with your kindnes...its an oner for you to come to my house for chrtmes..just kiding, I'm being sarkastik.. but if you will come to my house, my address is......."
Wednesday, December 12, 2007
Steve Coll - Ghost Wars
Must reading for anyone who has any interest in how these things developed. Offers triking insights into how Bin Laden developed into who he is and how we missed opportunities to stop him. Reletively fair and well balanced. Not a hatchet job.
Book description -
Steve Coll's Ghost Wars: The Secret History of the CIA, Afghanistan, and Bin Laden, from the Soviet Invasion to September 10, 2001 offers revealing details of the CIA's involvement in the evolution of the Taliban and Al Qaeda in the years before the September 11 attacks. From the beginning, Coll shows how the CIA's on-again, off-again engagement with Afghanistan after the end of the Soviet war left officials at Langley with inadequate resources and intelligence to appreciate the emerging power of the Taliban. He also demonstrates how Afghanistan became a deadly playing field for international politics where Soviet, Pakistani, and U.S. agents armed and trained a succession of warring factions. At the same time, the book, though opinionated, is not solely a critique of the agency. Coll balances accounts of CIA failures with the success stories, like the capture of Mir Amal Kasi. Coll, managing editor for the Washington Post, covered Afghanistan from 1989 to 1992. He demonstrates unprecedented access to records of White House meetings and to formerly classified material, and his command of Saudi, Pakistani, and Afghani politics is impressive. He also provides a seeming insider's perspective on personalities like George Tenet, William Casey, and anti-terrorism czar, Richard Clarke ("who seemed to wield enormous power precisely because hardly anyone knew who he was or what exactly he did for a living"). Coll manages to weave his research into a narrative that sometimes has the feel of a Tom Clancy novel yet never crosses into excess. While comprehensive, Coll's book may be hard going for those looking for a direct account of the events leading to the 9-11 attacks. The CIA's 1998 engagement with bin Laden as a target for capture begins a full two-thirds of the way into Ghost Wars, only after a lengthy march through developments during the Carter, Reagan, and early Clinton Presidencies. But this is not a critique of Coll's efforts; just a warning that some stamina is required to keep up. Ghost Wars is a complex study of intelligence operations and an invaluable resource for those seeking a nuanced understanding of how a small band of extremists rose to inflict incalculable damage on American soil.
Robert Strassler - The Landmark Herodotus
From the editor of the widely praised The Landmark Thucydides, a new Landmark Edition of The Histories by Herodotus, the greatest classical work of history ever written.Herodotus was a Greek historian living in Ionia during the fifth century BCE. He traveled extensively through the lands of the Mediterranean and the Black Sea and collected stories, and then recounted his experiences with the varied people and cultures he encountered. Cicero called him “the father of history,” and his only work, The Histories, is considered the first true piece of historical writing in Western literature. With lucid prose that harks back to the time of oral tradition, Herodotus set a standard for narrative nonfiction that continues to this day.In The Histories, Herodotus chronicles the rise of the Persian Empire and its dramatic war with the Greek city-states. Within that story he includes rich veins of anthropology, ethnography, geology, and geography, pioneering these fields of study, and explores such universal themes as the nature of freedom, the role of religion, the human costs of war, and the dangers of absolute power. Ten years in the making, The Landmark Herodotus gives us a new, dazzling translation by Andrea L. Purvis that makes this remarkable work of literature more accessible than ever before. Illustrated, annotated, and filled with maps, this edition also includes an introduction by Rosalind Thomas and twenty-one appendices written by scholars at the top of their fields, covering such topics as Athenian government, Egypt, Scythia, Persian arms and tactics, the Spartan state, oracles, religion, tyranny, and womenFrom the editor of the widely praised The Landmark Thucydides, a new Landmark Edition of The Histories by Herodotus, the greatest classical work of history ever written.
Herodotus was a Greek historian living in Ionia during the fifth century BCE. He traveled extensively through the lands of the Mediterranean and the Black Sea and collected stories, and then recounted his experiences with the varied people and cultures he encountered. Cicero called him “the father of history,” and his only work, The Histories, is considered the first true piece of historical writing in Western literature. With lucid prose that harks back to the time of oral tradition, Herodotus set a standard for narrative nonfiction that continues to this day.
In The Histories, Herodotus chronicles the rise of the Persian Empire and its dramatic war with the Greek city-states. Within that story he includes rich veins of anthropology, ethnography, geology, and geography, pioneering these fields of study, and explores such universal themes as the nature of freedom, the role of religion, the human costs of war, and the dangers of absolute power.
Ten years in the making, The Landmark Herodotus gives us a new, dazzling translation by Andrea L. Purvis that makes this remarkable work of literature more accessible than ever before. Illustrated, annotated, and filled with maps, this edition also includes an introduction by Rosalind Thomas and twenty-one appendices written by scholars at the top of their fields, covering such topics as Athenian government, Egypt, Scythia, Persian arms and tactics, the Spartan state, oracles, religion, tyranny, and women
Wednesday, December 05, 2007
David Baldacci - Stone Cold
Lawrence Bergreen - Marco Polo
Sunday, December 02, 2007
Alta - in the Village
We haven't been writing much since we came back from France. No real reason, we just seem to periodically fall into a funk--maybe a little writer's block! But, last night we went to a new restaurant that had an interesting menu that focused on "small dishes",
We have never been fans of Tapas. We enjoyed it in Spain when we were at bars that offered a wide variety in conjunction with drinks or wine--it was certainly an improvement over nuts, fried calamari and chicken fingers; but as a whole meal it didn't appeal to me.
We tried this place because Chris was at a fundraiser for "Just Food" in the Village and we couldn't get anything else at the last minute. It turned out to be a lucky choice.
The restaurant is on 10th Street between 5th and 6th Avenues in a delightful space with a fireplace, a really nice bar and a small dining room with exra seating on the balcony that looks down on the main room. The spots up there were very romantic and quite private compared with the main room which was packed but had a nice buzz. The wait friendly staff is informative and well versed in the menu, suggesting we just start with a few dishes. This is a really smart idea, because things come out quite quickly given that the menu is all "small dishes". The price range is from $6 to $14 with most items in the range of $9 to $11. They had a good wine list which was reasonably priced.
As you can see from the list we didn't limit our selves to just 3 or 4 dishes. Several of the dishes were quite wonderful; the Crispy Brussels Sprouts outstanding and a favourite with both of us! Beyond that, each of us favored different things. Chris the Mushrooms, Fried Goat Cheese and Pork Ribs; me the Calamari and the Cauliflower. There was only one dish we really didn't like, the Potato Gratin.
Lamb Meatballs spiced butternut squash foam, toasted sesame seeds and lebne
Crispy Brussels Sprouts fuji apples, crème fraiche, pistachio nuts
Caramelized Cauliflower manila clams, chorizo, golden raisins
Royal Trumpet Mushrooms sauteed with garlic and thyme, sea salt and fresh lemon
Marinated Bella di Cerignola moroccan cured and arbequina olives
Wok Seared Baby Calamari fideos vermicelli, chinese sausage and cherry tomatoes
Paprika-potato Gratin oloroso carmelized onions, piquillo, manchego
Fried Goat Cheese with lavender infused honey
Danish Pork Ribs roasted with kecap manis & coriander
For wine we had a nice Cotes de Nuits-Villages, (Denis Bachelet 2004).
The wine must have been good because we then shared a dessert, a wonderful Bananas with a Crepe (it reminded me of that Mid-West favorite Bananas Foster).
64 West 10th Street
(bet 5th & 6th Aves)
212-505-7777
Saturday, December 01, 2007
Robert Harris - The Ghost
Howard Dully
Sunday, November 25, 2007
Minette Walters - Disordered Minds
Bob Drogin - Curve Ball
Valerie Plame Wilson - Fair Game
Valerie Wilson retired from the CIA in January 2006, and now, not only as a citizen but as a wife and mother, the daughter of an Air Force colonel, and the sister of a U.S. marine, she sets the record straight, providing an extraordinary account of her training and experiences, and answers many questions that have been asked about her covert status, her responsibilities, and her life. As readers will see, the CIA still deems much of the detail of Valerie's story to be classified. As a service to readers, an afterword by national security reporter Laura Rozen provides a context for Valerie's own story.
Fair Game is the historic and unvarnished account of the personal and international consequences of speaking truth to power.
Walter Moseley - Blonde Faith
Wednesday, November 07, 2007
Gotham Bar and Grill
We went Gotham Bar and Grll this weekend after a long hiatus (over 15 years for me!). Alfred Portale had pioneered the concept of tall. "architectural" presentations of food. I thought it was too gimmicky and never went back.
However, we were meeting Scott and Jory late Sunday night after they returned from San Francisco and I remembered they had a very nice bar and East 12th Street is convenient to both of us.
The bar is along one wall of this long restaurant. While we were waiting, we enjoyed a Gin Gimlet and some bar 'treats'--wonderful tiny oysters and an order of 'Grilled Octopus' with roasted cherry tomatoes and chick peas. It was as good as any Octopus I have had anywhere - delicate but with good "mouth feel". Chris's 'Raw Oysters' served with onions and vinegar were just like in Paris.
After Scott and Jory arrived we continued with our 'second' starters. I had the excellent 'Yellowfin Tuna Tartare' and Chris had the 'Baby Organic Mixed Green Salad" with Sherry and olive oil. Scott enjoyed the same grilled octopus and Jory opted for the Gotham soup of the day which was a creamy cauliflower. For our main course we both had the 'Heritage Pork' on spinach with a puree of fava beans and plums. We eat a lot of pork. In most restaurants I find they do a better job than with beef (the exception being Sparks and Peter Luger). The chicken on Jory's plate looked great and Scott had a serving of Duck with was perfectly done. We acoompanied the meal with a nice Australian grenache.
Overall, a very pleasant meal. We'll be back.
Gotham Bar and Grill
12 East 12th Street
212-620-4020
Tuesday, November 06, 2007
Jason Goodwin
Minette Walters - The Ice House
Minette Walters - The Devil's Feather
Jack Goldsmith - The Terror Presidency
Alan Kramer - Dynamics of Destruction
Wednesday, October 24, 2007
Doris Lessing - Time Bites
I don't like her politics but her writing and commentary are wonderful -sharp and insightful while a delight to read. Her essays show what good writing can be like. It makes me want to erase everything I ever wrote as inadequate.
Book Description
Arguably the grande dame of English letters—the list of her published works comes to 60-plus—Lessing has always been outspoken about literature, politics and social issues. The 65 essays and book reviews collected here range over those topics and others, all declaimed in Lessing's brisk, wry voice and articulated with pragmatic intelligence. Her literary reviews always amplify the book at hand; the pieces on Virginia Woolf, Leo Tolstoy and Jane Austen resonate with fresh insight. Her enthusiastic reconsiderations of authors who are little read today, including Olive Schreiner, George Meredith, A.E. Coppard and Walter de la Mare, may pique readers' curiosity. Another obscure book, about an American prostitute, comes to light in the fascinating "The Maimie Papers." Six essays discuss the writer Idries Shah and his books about the mysteries and consolations of Sufism, which, Lessing claims, were "like a depth charge" and fulfilled all her philosophical and spiritual needs. Not every reader will be convinced. There's a tirade against Robert Mugabe of Zimbabwe (Rhodesia was Lessing's homeland) and a coruscating indictment of American complacency before 9/11. The main theme, whether addressed overtly or underlying her literary criticism, is the indispensable place of books in the life of an educated person and an enlightened culture. Hers is a clarion call
Lawrence Block - Hit Parade
Book description
Block's assassin, John Keller (Hit Man; Hit List), returns in these loosely linked, well-crafted vignettes of the protagonist on assignment, blithely but expertly eliminating a grab bag of targets: a philandering pro baseball player, a jockey in a fixed horse race, two women who hire him to put down a neighbor's dog, a Cuban exile and more. Manhattan-based Keller works through his agent, Dot, who assigns murders from her home just north in White Plains.Keller, a loner by temperament and trade, has an easy camaraderie with Dot. The two entrepreneurial colleagues strike a casual tone in conversation—but they're discussing death (sometimes in gory detail). With dry wit, Block tracks the pursuits of the morally ambiguous Keller, who hunts rare, pricey stamps for his extensive collection when he's not "taking care of business." Four-time Shamus- and Edgar-winner Block has the reader queasily rooting for the killer as well as the victims, unsettling the usual point of identification and assumptions about right and wrong
Dennis Lehane - Darness, Take My Hand
Book description
In his outstanding second novel, Lehane (whose debut, A Drink Before the War, won a Shamus award) explores horror close to home. Boston PIs Patrick Kenzie and Angie Gennaro agree to help psychiatrist Diandra Warren. Her patient, using the name Moira Kenzie, has said she was abused by Kevin Hurlihy, a sociopathic Irish Mafia henchman who grew up in Angie and Patrick's neighborhood. Hurlihy may have threatened the doctor, who fears that her son, Jason, may be in danger. While Patrick and Angela shadow Jason, another former neighbor, Kara Rider, is found crucified. Sensing a connection, Patrick seeks out a retired cop turned saloonkeeper who recalls a hushed-up crucifixion murder in the neighborhood 20 years ago. The suspect in that killing is in prison, so he can't be murdering again, can he? As Patrick probes painful memories, he faces losing the woman he loves, Grace Cole, who is appalled at the brutality invading their lives. By the time Patrick and Angie realize how the murders relate to their own youth, they are the next targets. The showdown is unpredictable, like the New England autumn which, in Lehane's depiction, is informed by a wind "so chilly and mean it seemed the exhalation of a Puritan god." The story is densely peopled with multidimensional characters; there are no forgettable, walk-on roles on Lehane's stage. Lehane's voice, original, haunting and straight from the heart, places him among that top rank of stylists who enrich the modern mystery novel
Tuesday, October 23, 2007
Postcards from Paris, another first!
One of the things that has really improved since I first came to Paris in the 70's is the public bathrooms. Back then, 'pissoirs', outdoor urinals, were the preferred venue for Parisian men (I don't know what women did). They were large, round, dark green, steel contraptions not unlike the familiar round advertising locations common now, only larger. Men (up to 10 at a time) would enter and pee against the center wall and it would drain to the sewer. Bathrooms in Cafes were co-ed and featured urinals along one wall and commodes along the other for men and women. Less elegant locations would have neither urinals nor toilets, but rather co-ed 'squatters 'with two raised footprints in the center of a tiled drain.
Today, public bathrooms in Paris are a joy, located in every cafe, restaurant and public facility. There are also high-tech pay toilets located on busy streets. These are well designed commodes that self-clean and disinfect after every use. There's also a mechanism which causes the doors to fly open after a respectable time period. They've been in use for about 5 years and NYC recently agreed to purchase a number of them for use in Manhattan.
As one of his first initiatives, the new Mayor of Paris made all city museums and pay toilets free of charge. This does not include the major museums that are national. To date, we had enjoyed the free museums, but not the toilets. I'm happy to report that they are not to be shunned
- they are clean and well equipped with toilet paper, towels and running water. This is probably more then you ever wanted to know about this topic, but suffice it to say that any remaining hesitations about coming to Paris should now be eliminated.
Friday, October 19, 2007
Postcards from Paris #3
Thursday, October 18, 2007
A Postcard from Paris
A postcard from Paris . . .
I took a French cooking class with Scott and Jory/ We enjoyed experimenting with new ingredients we bought at a local market. The result, at the end of a morning in the kitchen with 'chef Eric,' was a sumptuous lunch of sauteed shrimp on ratatouille and winter veal stew. We finished with cheese and a molten chocolate cake (served with a "surprise" sauce of banana and avocado). All were served with the appropriate wine. All in all a fine morning! Paul was happy to be invited to share the meal even though he did not participate in the preparation.
Wish you all could have been there,
Postcards from Paris
Postcards from Paris: An Unusual Visitation. . .
Christina and Christine went to visit Pere Lachaise Cemetery this week where the line-up of illustrious corpses date back to the 1700's! Here lie Proust, Oscar Wilde, Edith Piaf, and almost anyone French, talented and DEAD that you can think of. They don't discriminate against creed or nationality but space is now at a premium, in fact since 2003 they have introduced 10, 30, and 50 year leases. If you have an existing lease, it buys you about a century and those in 'perpetuelles' may stay until abandoned. Of the one million originally buried here, approximately 200 thousand remain--now that's a lot of souls!
The grounds are beautiful, and you need a minimum of half a day here. Here's just a little snap shot of some of the gravestones we found interesting.
Tuesday, October 16, 2007
Ooh la la
We have never visited Reims, the Champagne region, just outside of Paris. So we decided that it would be a perfect trip to take when Scott and Jory joined us in Paris this year. Several people had recommended a particular chateau that offered a one day, all inclusive lunch with a champagne tasting menu and a visit to Veuve Cliquot, our favourite 'cave'. Sounds perfect--right????
The day started badly... We had to leave the house at 8:30 am to catch the train. That was aggressive planning on Chris's part since Scott and Jory were still somewhat jet-lagged and not not stirring before noon. I'm normally grumpy about doing anything before I've read the paper. The short train ride put us in Reims at about 9:45 am, giving us what Chris said, would be enough time to explore the city before the designated pick-up by the Chateau. I had been thinking about our visit to Burgundy and the lovely little towns like St. Emilion that we enjoyed so much. Unfortunately, Reims is more New Haven than St. Emilion. As we headed out from the station, Chris was looking for the Cathedral, I was looking for a nice Cafe or tea house for breakfast; Scott and Jory were just groggily following along -- we were hopeful! Quel domage! We were too cold to walk all the way to the cathedral and didn't have enough time to visit the town and still satisfy the need for coffee so..... we stopped at the least offensive place and managed to get warm and raise our blood sugar enough to head back to the station for our designated pick-up.
Eh bien, at the station, with no pick-up in sight there was a certain degree of anxiety. Chris began her efforts to call the Chateau while Scott was looking at the timetable to see the earliest he could get back to Paris - not a good sign! I was thinking about the Rolls Royce that the hotel in Hong Kong had sent to pick us up. Forty-five minutes later with still no car in sight, there was some brief talk about lynching our travel arranger (Chris). Instead we took a cab to the chateau.
As we pulled into the drive, things began to look up. The chateau was lovely. In the garden room the mood quickly changed with our first glass of champagne and a discussion of the menu.
The menu was too complicated and required too many decisions so Scott suggested they just "surprise us". There were four courses. All had a champagne accompaniment except dessert (according to Veuve Cliquot, you "don't drink champagne with chocolate"). Each course had a dominant theme but was broken into 4 or 5 flights, each one presented separately in a dish or cup or bowl or goblet. I couldn't begin to describe them all so I'll just stick to the basic theme. Assume that fresh truffles, foie gras and seasonal mushrooms were
abundant.
Aperitif
1998 Veuve Cliquot Brut
Assorted nuts, flat breads, olives, salmon cake and faux french fries made from whipped potatoes. Not to mention the little glass of deviled egg that was outrageous.
The 'amuse bouche' was a little ball filled with warm champagne, presented atop the neck of a cut champagne bottle. We were told to pop the entire thing in our mouth because there would be a burst of liquid--a surprise!
Fish Course
2002 Veuve Cliquot Rose
Salmon tartare et al for the ladies
Scallops et al for the men.
Meat Course
1999 Veuve Cliquot Brut
Veal for the women on a bed of crisp veggies
Chicken rolled in truffles for the men (Bresse, of course - it is the most prized chicken in France where the markets carry, at least, Cock or Hen for 'traditional', 'farm raised' and 'Bresse') .
Dessert Course
Believe it or not, this was the course where they really outdid themselves. It came in three waves, each having 3-5 components. The first wave was a light puff pastry with cream and fresh raspberries, Next came the chocolate sensations: molten cake, mousse, puddings and ices. The third wave was delivered on a cart, like a cheese selection! At this point we all groaned--it all looked so good and was one of the most interestingly presented carts (Sheila-we were thinking of you!) We declined all but the smallest of tastes.
Coffee course
Served back in the garden room with brandies and chocolate truffles. We could barely finish the coffee--just wanting to be left alone to sleep it off. But no!!! There was more to come. We couldn't believe we were heading off to the caves and MORE CHAMPAGNE!
Our private tour with Fanny as guide, made this a truly deluxe experience. We went through the museum, which had a fascinating discussion of champagne forgery over the years and then went down into the chalk caves to look at the wine. It was interesting to hear about the process and the stories and innovations of Mme Cliquot. There were bottles that dated back almost 100 years. Back in the tasting room, they opened three bottles, all vintage a Brut, a Sec (slightly sweeter) and the flagship of the brand La Grande Dame (at least $150 a bottle retail). They were delicious but we were probably a little over-champagned by that point and not as appreciative as we might have been before lunch. Each couple was sent off with a bottle of the non-vintage Brut and a book of the history of Veuve Cliquot and an invitation to return.
The train ride home was quiet with all of us wishing that we could have gone back to the that lovely garden room for a nap. What an experience!
Wednesday, October 10, 2007
Paris Notes: 2
- An invitation to the home of a French couple who call Paris their home. Their warm welcome and willingness to put up with my less then perfect French won't be forgotten.
- Participation in "Nuit Blanche" with friends Narissa and Tony. Without them we would probably never have gone Cafe hopping to watch the final minutes of the Rugby match between France and New Zealand (France won) nor gone walking at the Tuilleries which were lit up with hundreds of open torches, and burning sculptures.
- Spending time with Scott and Jory eating great food, touring Champagne country and going to a cooking class.
Monday, October 08, 2007
Paris Notes
This is the fifth year we've come to Paris since we retired. We thought we'd share some observations at the end of the 2nd week...
We still love Paris.
- On average, we walk about 5 miles a day (based on Chris' pedometer). Paris is an outdoors city where people are on the street, walking, bicycling and cafe-ing . Sometimes the whole city feels like Central Park on a Fall weekend. On every corner there are one or more terraces open all year long with large gas heaters for the colder weather. The good ones are full all year. It may be the small, dark apartments but people don't seem to entertain at home; instead congregating in the cafes and Bistros around town where you can meet friends or simply spend the day people-watching. New York is trying to increase the number of sidewalk cafes but the city just isn't set up that way. Paris has a "Place" every hundred yards - hell on traffic, but wonderful for sitting around.
- There are more museums in Paris than in New York - there seems to be a museum to celebrate everyone and everything, but on the whole we prefer the ones we have in New York. They're more people-friendly and less crowded; one seldom finds a line to get in. On the other hand, the Musee d'Orsay may be the best all around museum I've ever been to, based on content and its manageable size.
- Everybody has a dog and they seem to be welcome most places. The stoop and scoop law is often ignored, so it's imperative to keep at least one eye on where you're walking!
Staying on our diet is very difficult!
- we love bread and cheese
- salad is hard to find
- the ice cream and gelato shops are along our daily route--we sometimes choose to miss a meal so we can indulge
- It sometimes feels like we walk from cafe to bakery to creperie to gelato shop to chocolate shops. Every one having a favorite that is calling to us.
The Euro is strong, the Dollar is WEAK!
- especially painful with the cost of restaurants. It can cost $50 for salad and club soda for two at a cafe and $600 for two at a nice (1 star) restaurant.
Chris is frustrated learning the language
- She spends hours every day doing "homework" and in a conversation group
- She talks to every cab driver, dog owner and waiter we see.
- She is making progress despite what she thinks
To be continued...
Friday, October 05, 2007
It's All About the Food!
Each department here has products so tempting and beautifully displayed that it's pretty difficult to leave without something. We left with the cutest little dried sausages in a jar, incredible strawberries (here bigger is NOT better) and reasonably priced bottles of Cote du Rhone. We managed to march right past the pastry counter!
Hediards 2007
Wednesday, September 26, 2007
One Way to go
Using typically Parisian logic, the applications for the access card are available at Metro stations an PASTRY SHOPS only at the moment.
Paul and I haven't tried them YET! But it's on Chris' agenda.
Sunday, September 23, 2007
It's A Tight Squeeze
Being here reminded us about our first driving trip through Europe and the adventures of Paul negotiating his way backwards down a lane that wasn't meant to be driven on! Needless to say, we prefer pedestrian travel!
September, 2007
Thursday, September 20, 2007
Why are you going to Paris again, for six weeks!
Paris again? You're going for six weeks? Why not try some place else?
These are questions our friends ask us and that we ask ourselves. When we were in Rome last week we seriously discussed the possibility of going there or somewhere else instead of Paris. I have a strong bias towards cities and there are a number of world-class cities we could visit. Compared to Paris, cost is not a major issue with any of them. To me, the list of world class cities begins with New York and Paris followed by London and Rome and maybe a few others. After that, there is a break before a large group of nice cities that I would love to visit; but not spend six weeks.
The issue for me is that I want to go away for long enough to really feel like we're living there, not just visiting and sightseeing. I want to get up each morning, not with a checklist of things I to do before leaving, but with the thought that I just want to enjoy the day in the best way I can. That can mean just getting a baguette and a newspaper and sitting and watching the people go by; or it can mean going to see a wonderful show at a museum. It all depends on the day and what's available.
When we arrive in Paris, it's like coming home. We're like kids rushing to our favorite store to buy the bread and cheese we love. We spend hours going over Pariscope to see what's happening at the cabarets, museums and movie theaters and we start going over the Michelin and Pudlo restaurant guides to decide where we will be eating - old favorites and new. And, Chris starts planning her trips to the market - think of 10 Union Squares arranged end to end with incredible variety. They have more kinds of mushrooms, potatoes and beans than we ever dreamt of. We're much more organized here than we are in NY! I can't explain it but it's like being home. We love to walk the streets, miles of them. There's so much to do we feel like we're "bathing" in Paris. We know we won't get to it all, but we're also never bored. There's always next year.
I would be willing to go just about anywhere for a week, maybe two; but compared to New York or Paris I can't imagine staying any longer.
September 20/07
Sunday, September 16, 2007
The del Balsos are in Rome
We just arrived in Rome and spent the day walking around and immersing ouorselves in Roma! What a difference from France (or Germany or the UK for that matter)! Here everything just comes at you in waves of smells and tastes and language and TRASH! I've been here maybe 10 times for short stays, mostly on business. Every time I leave with a sense of having been welcomed with open arms. The people you meet just want to help you find what you need or want. There's a strong sense they feel sorry for you that you don't live here and they just want to help the less fortunate.
In France, Germany and the UK everything (or as much as they can manage) is neat and organized and cared for. The paradigm is the neat English or French garden or the German window box. There is also a sense that the visitor is less fortunate, but the effect is more one of disdain than welcoming (NY has some of this sense too).
We are staying in a small Inn near the Spanish Steps (about 10 feet!). It's charming with a lovely roof garden for breakfast and evening cocktails. It's very centrally located in walking distance from all of central Rome and the night noises make us feel like we're in our own apartment. We're on the Via Condotti (the Madison Avenue of Rome) which begins at the Spanish Steps. It's a Saturday and the hordes of tourists are somewhat disconcerting. Everything in Rome is all jumbled up together. You leave the Via Condotti and turn a corner and you come upon the Panthenon, built in 40BC(!) and still open to the public! Another block or two and we're at the 16th century Piazza Navona filled with artists, fountains and cafes (and benches!) then turned the corner and came to the Campo del Fiore (60 BC) where there's still a market every morning. In between these major sites every block was filled with little shops and interesting buildings. Romans still live and work in all these neighborhoods. Chris, of course, had to look into every shop and building along the way. It takes a long time to get anywhere but what great way to see the city.
We're here for only three more days before we go to Paris and are thoroughly enjoing ourselves. It's a real change from New York and Paris. This is like standing in a waterfall with sensations crashing out at you from every direction.
September 15, 2007
Thursday, September 13, 2007
BLT Market, again
We went to BLT Market again tonight. It's our second time since it opened this summer. We liked it so much we changed our reservation for today (with Scott and Jory) from one of our other favorites, Sfoglia on the EUS. This will be our last dinner before we leave for Paris on Friday or six weeks . This really made us think about what makes a "good" restaurant--one that we would want to.
At the very least it has to have good food and an interesting menu. BLT Market qualifies on both counts. Chris and I "fought' about whether her Starter of "Soft Shell Crab with Grilled Local Corn" was as good as my "Langoustine with Arborio Risotto" (it wasn't!) or her "Veal and Pork Meat Balls with Garlic Pomodoro Sauce" were as good as my Daily Special "5 Spiced Glazed LI Duckling" (it also didn't cut it). The sign of a good menu is the number of items we want to order but don't - for example they have a delicious sounding "Stuffed Amish Chicken Provencale" that sounds delicious but keeps getting superseded by the daily special. An interesting menu and high quality food is critical, but not enough to make us come back. The restaurant also needs a a really good ambiance. BLT Market has very comfortable tables, windows that open to the street and for right now at least an exceptionally attentive staff. This restaurant has only been open a month but even sow, we probably couldn't have gotten a reservation if it wasn't Rosh Hashanah.
All in all, we think this a really good restaurant. Not fancy, but with an excellent menu, well prepared and served by an attentive staff. This makes the 6th BLT restaurant in NY. We're not fans of the others because they seem too "trendy" and gimmicky. However, tonight will make the third time we've been here since it opened. A good choice before we leave for Paris tomorrow.
BLT Market
Ritz-Carlton Hotel
1430 Sixth Ave. (CPS)
212-521-6125
Wednesday, September 05, 2007
Tess Gerritsen - The Mephisto Club
John Harvey - Darkness & Light
Charles Lohr - The Chess Machine
Charles Cumming - A Spy by Nature
Barbara Cleverly - The Last Kashmiri Rose
I love historical mysteries set in interesting places. She does a great job on both India and a credible mystery
Copyright 2002 Reed Business Information, Incescription
Barbara Cleverly - The Damascened Blade
A good mystery set in a fascinating time.
Book description
Devotees of classic Golden Age whodunits will delight in British author Cleverly's third Joe Sandilands mystery set in India in 1922; it evokes, and in some ways surpasses, the work of Agatha Christie. The resourceful and insightful Sandilands assumes a glorified babysitting assignment when a rich and attractive American heiress expresses a desire to tour India's dangerous northwest frontier with Afghanistan during a period of heightened political tension. The heiress and Sandilands end up at a frontier outpost with a motley collection of companions—a Pathan prince and his kinsman, a female doctor en route to serve the amir ruling Afghanistan, a sleazy entrepreneur, an RAF pilot hoping to gain support for an increased military aerial presence and a veteran civil servant advocating a British retreat. When the prince is found dead, evidence suggesting foul play is suppressed. Sandilands is forced to act on his suspicions when the victim's kinsman takes a hostage and imposes a one-week deadline for a solution to the crime. Cleverly does a masterful job of combining traditional puzzle elements, including false endings and subtle fair-play clues, with convincing period atmosphere and characters with more complexity and sophistication than Christie typically provided. This marvelous historical delivers on the promise of the author's first two mysteries—The Last Kashmiri Rose