Postcards from Copenhagen

Postcard from Copenhagen

At first glance yesterday morning, we might have thought we were in Amsterdam; bicycles, canals, old world architecture and tall, Nordic looking people. Others would have attributed our first look to the fact that we were a wee bit jet lagged having had no more then an hour or two of shut-eye during our flight!



While there seem to be similarities, every city has it's own charm and Copenhagen certainly has plenty of that. Our short stay here can't possibly give us a true picture of what it's like to be a native and Chris especially laments not visiting the usual galleries, churches and castles in the area. Tivoli Gardens however was right across the street from our hotel and last night we wandered in for a look. You couldn't have gotten either of us on the crazy stomach churning rides, but the gardens themselves and the little cafes were charming. I slept through the entire performance of a dance troop, but was wide awake for the dinner at Groften resturant, the oldest spot in Tivoli. We try to pick things we wouldn't ordinarily eat and this was no exception. Paul's starter of seasonally appropriate white asparagus came with smoked duck breast and was delicious. This was followed by a more ordinary version of schnitzel. Christina, not to be outdone ordered herring salad which came with wonderful pumpernickle followed by a traditional dish called "Skipperlabskovs" (a cross between cornbeef hash and sheppards pie), looked a little mixed up but was tasty served with red beets and washed down with acquivat.



The streets are full of vendors selling more versions of hot dogs then we could eat in a month and where we have a Starbucks on every corner, here you find a "7 Eleven" complete with slushy bars inside! The thing we've enjoyed the most is the incredible variety of breads, rolls and pastry items at the morning breakfast table. Who knew there were so many varieties of pumpernickle! It's a good thing we're getting ont he ship tomorrow.

Esca in the theater distriict

Recently, we went to see the Manhattan Theater Club presentation of "The American Plan". It was really quite good. Beforehand, we enjoyed a pre-theater dinner at Esca on 43rd St and 9th Ave.  We were quite pleasantly surprised, especially since we were actually able to get a reservation on short notice. It may quite possibly be the best restaurant in the area.

 

I started with Moscardino, Grilled baby octopus with bitter greens and cipolline onions. It was just about perfect. The octopus was lightly grilled with the onions. I have octopus quite often and this was among the best. Chris was being responsible; choosing two starters a fresh, perfectly dressed 'salad mixt' and the Moscardino for a main course.

 

The house specialty, Branzino per Due,Whole Mediterranean sea bass for two cooked in a sea salt crust was sold out (at 6:00!)  so I had the special, home made Maccheroni with Razor Clams, Mussels and Little Neck and white beans. It was exceptional. Even the beans were perfect.

 

They have quite a nice wine list by the "quartino". Chris had a Valpolicella Ripasso “Semonte Alto”, (Venturini 2004) and I had a “Klin” Riserva, Primosic 2004, Friuli. Both were quite nice.

 

We were very pleased not only with the food, but also the decor.  Tables were generously spaced, the staff was knowledgable, friendly and made suggestions that we liked.  All in all, a fine dinner at a reasonable price, within easy walking distance of our theatre.

 

Esca Restaurant

402 West 43rd Street

212-564-7272

 

 

Rouge Tomate on East 61st

Rouge Tomate
10 East 60th Street
646-237-8977



We've been eating out less these days, but still keep a long list of places we'd like to try. The NYT "Dining In" and the resturant reviews in local magazines continue to intrigue us. Recently there was a write up about "Rouge Tomate". It sounded like a large new space (risky in this economy) but the menu looked interesting.


As with any favorably reviewed restaurant, it was hard to snag a reservation except 'early'in the evening. It's a large, 2 story, space with a bar and cafe on the first floor and a restaurant below. Interestingly, it's in the original location of the Copacabana night club. The room is modern and comfortable without being fussy and the kitchen is visible in the middle of the dining room. (see picture). There's a nice buzz - although we were there on Friday night and it wasn't full.



The menu is diverse, with interesting choices, and is determinedly 'locavore' with most items including a lengthy CV. Food prices are "reasonable" for the neighborhood but the wine list, in my view, was very pricey.



Chris has an odd attraction to brussel sprouts and ordered a

Salad of Brussels Sprout Leaves Market Pear, Berkshire Prosciutto, Balsamic, Halzenut


and I started with an excellent

Celery Root and Almond Panna Cotta Peekytoe Crab, Grapefruit,Tarragon, Citron Vinegar



Chris frequently orders rabbit when it's available. This was boned and rolled.

Farm Raised Rabbit Fleischnacke Chesnut Pasta, Market Apple, Celery Root, Tarragon--it was terrific!

My entre was Pasture Raised Guinea Hen Market Squash, Fall Spiced Seckle Pear, Chard, Honey Vinegar Jus


We drank a fine Chilean Cabernet and found our meal to be flavourful and satisfying.



We had french press coffee to finish the meal. We're sudenly seeing that everywhere. We really enjoy it prepared that way when we're in Paris and had resurrected our pots at home from early (first) married days.



We'll be back.

I feel proud

For the first time in a long while I feel proud - not because America elected it's first black President - although that's a good thing. It's because he respects ability and smarts and education. And because he's appointing people who are like that. The agenda seems to be to do the right thing without a social agenda. In a funny way, the economic crisis gives us a chance to rise above the partisan issues and focus on the big - shared - issues. I know it's still early, but I believe Obama is rising to the challenge with his appointments - talented, experienced people who inspire confidence here and in the rest of the world.

I'm a Republican. Not a "Reagan" Republican but a "Rockefeller" Republican. I believe in personal responsibility and personal liberty. But I also believe in shared responsibility, as an American, to help out where it's needed. I was thrilled in the 70's when the traditional liberal, special interest Democrats were swept out of office. Unfortunately, my whole voting life I seemed to be voting AGAINST something - liberals, actors, philanderers, christian conservatives.

Barack Obama was the first time in a long while that I voted for someone who I believed shared my goals and aspirations. John McCain was a huge disappointment to me. I know Obama will do things I disagree with, sometimes strongly. It would be impossible not to in this volatile time. But I believe he is truly trying to do the best for all without exploiting patisan divisions. He may not succeed, but at least he's trying. And the crisis may just be serious enough to give everyone a stake in his success. We all know it's time to do something about the Middle East, healthcare funding, the growing wealth gap and education - we just don't know what to do. But it's time we did something. At least we can move forward and learn from our mistakes. The economy will eventually improve and the war will end. These issues will remain.


Again, I feel proud. Not because Barack Obama is black but because he speaks intelligently and chooses smart, capable people to surround himself with.

Important information from our cruise

We've been on a wonderful cruise in Southern Italy and Sicily. We were with my sister and brother-in-law on a small sailing ship. Chris will write more about the great trip but I couldn't wait to share some important new information. Both Chris and I prefer the basic pizza called Margherita everywhere. I had always wondered why the name was used everywhere. I now have the answer! It was named after Queen Margherita of Italy. She visited Naples in the 19th century shortly after Italy was unified. The pizza was created in her honor using the three colors of the Italian flag, In an expression of solidarity we have had pizza almost every day since we learned about it.

Postcard from Florence

THIS IS JUST A SMALL SAMPLE OF THE TINY VEHICLES WE CAME ACROSS WHILE HERE. THEY'RE ALL ELECTRIC AND MOST ARE USED TO TRANSPORT LOCAL WORKERS AND EQUIPMENT--EVERYTHING FROM BRICKS TO MAIL!

TO MARKET, TO MARKET

In Florence there are two main markets that are open daily to supply the pantry's of the locals. Today, our last day, we visited the Mercato Centrale. It is a covered food market, packed with stalls offering fruit, vegetables, fish, cheese, bread and as you can see a variety of interesting meats. We were amazed there isn't any part of the pig that isn't on display in the various stalls. Want an ear or nose for your stew--no problem, even intestines were readily available, we weren't quite sure for what. Not once have we seen anything that resembles what we saw at the market in any restaurant. Well maybe there were unidentifiable bits in the sopressata that filled our sandwich one day, but aside from that, no trotters, snouts or ears have been visible on any plate that we've seen!

While in Florence we've eaten more pizza in three weeks then in all the years we've known each other! More pizza even then gelatto! Every Enoteca, lunch spot and wine bar features the pizza in all it forms. From a plain margherita to something piled high with salad, veggies and meat of all sorts. Our favourite, and most expensive, was one that featured pecorino cheese and wild boar salami. That with a glass of Chianti Classico and we're set for the day! How will we ever be satisfied with the product we buy from Whole Foods???

As we prepare to leave this city, we're filling up with a last bite of cheese, nibbling on the wonderful foccacia we turned up in a small neighbourhood shop and wondering what delights await us as we head further south. It's been a three week adventure. One filled with incredible art, tasty food and learning about a culture that has surprised us in new ways, gotten us into a couple of real "pasticcios" (big trouble) and made us smile as we watched the interactions of the locals (especially the men); connected with travelers from all over the world especially Canadians and delighted in the sounds of our local church bells to keep the rhythm of our days.

Drinks with the Contessa

Many of you have, I know, experienced Paul's right hook in relation to a glass of wine--especially red wine. If not, just let me say that his 'best shot' occurred across the table from a woman dressed in a white suit--need I say more! It's been a source of many jokes at his expense and it keeps me on my toes trying to anticipate where I should be sitting and how I can best intervene while he's telling stories when there's wine on the table!



Well, the day has finally come, when I will NEVER be able to mention his 'wine shots' again. Yesterday, was a day I'll not long forget and not just because the stock market went down ANOTHER 500 points. We were shopping at a local gourmet store finding goodies for dinner when we ran into our landlady, the Contessa. It was a bit of a walk back to the apartment, she had rather a heavy package, a cane and given how gracious she's been to us, Paul volunteered to carry her groceries back--we were afterall going the same way. Once home, she invited us in for a cocktail and who could resist--I was dying to see her space. This apatment has 15 foot ceilings, a kitchen with a cooking spit large enough to roast a pig and a sink the size of a small bathtub. It's filled with Renisannce art, furnished with antiques and the two dogs who immediately jumped into our laps just completed the picture. Things were going well until I went into the room where I had left our groceries to put something away. A bag slipped and crashed to the floor which was concrete covered in clay tiles. You can probably guess this doesn't have a good ending and that it involves quantities of red wine! Right! Not only did the bottle smash, but the glass splintered and it rolled out of the bag! THE ENTIRE BOTTLE spilled on a rug that looked and probably was hundreds of years old! I WANTED TO DIE! Could I possibly ignore it and just pretend it didn't happen???? Would anyone notice???? NOT! Not only was there a puddle on the rug that looked like someone had been shot and killed on the spot, but there were splashes on the antique chairs she had pointed out that came from France and had been in the family for decades. Well, I was horrified, what to do, how could I begin to appologize??? In the end after picking up shards, sponging the chair (all traces came out--thank gawd), the housekeeper and her daughter carried the rug into the laundry room to try to spot clean what they could. With assurances that "it's alright", "these things happen" and on and on, we went back into the family room for our glass of wine, but I have to say, I was NOT comfortable and could hardly wait to escape.

American students are the new Mexicans

One of the most surprising things we've noticed is all the American "students" we've met working at different places in Florence. I use the term "students" loosely since not all of them are studying in the classical sense. And I also use the word "American" loosely since just today, we met a young Canadian who was working at a bio cheese producing farm.



The first one we noticed was at a farmers market. The butcher's assistant was from NJ, here for two years to study Italian, pig farming and butchering. We've met quite a few others at food related sites and markets, a gelato stand a restaurant and some who work as local tour guides. Most are on student visas and are now "illegal aliens" in Italy.



There are probably as many 'creative' ways to stay in a country as there are people seeking adventure. Where once, parents and/or their offspring spent hard earned cash to escape abroad and experience the Big 3 - wine, women and song, now there seem to be endless possibilities. These kids are working on farms! I assume they still find time for the big 3. One of the kids told us they were WWOOF -ing it - Willing Workers in Organic Farming. I kid you not. Check out their website. They're a global organization and provide inexpensive ways to 'work ones way' across many different countries. Who knows, we just might be tempted to come back to Italy in November -- we'll be just in time for the olive harvest!

A real "fiasco"

A REAL FIASCO

Welcome to the 900 year old Castello Trebbio, the former home of the Pazzi family in the Chianti region. This Castle has a famous and bloody history given that it was the place where the Pazzis tried to do away with the Medicis! The plot involved the Pope, the bishop of Pisa and the local church, but it was not to be. In the end, the entire Pazzi family along with the bishop were either tossed from the windows of the church or hung from the walls by their neck. Only one Pazzi family member, who was married to the sister ofthe Medici prince was allowed to live. Today, the castle houses a young family with two passions: wine making and pressing quality olive oil.

Our visit included tasting some interesting local wines, including a super-Tuscan called Pezzano and an interesting dessert wine called Vin Santo. Here, instead of dipping biscotti in coffee or tea, they dip it into the sweet wine--not a bad idea! This was also where we were surprised to learn of the origin of the word 'fiasco'. It seems that before there was any regulation for wine in the region, farmers blended whatever they had pressed, with whatever was available cheaply and bottled it in a straw covered bottle called the "Fiasco". If you're of the same vintage as us, you might have some fond memories of these straw bottles covered with wax drippings from many burning candles while sitting around listening to Jimmy Hendrix or the Stones. Boy, things sure have changed! The wine is better, not sure about the music.

Here the olive oil is still picked and pressed by hand and stored in large clay pots. Clay pots are now outlawed for mass production, but small boutique producers are still able to use the old methods. The 'extra virgin', first pressing is delicious. We've been amazed at how much olive oil is used here. The average Italian uses a liter a month. It's placed on the table with all food, drizzled on bread, pizza, soup and even some desserts. We've become even greater fans of this golden oil.

We've tasted many varieties, enjoying most; even one special reserve from the "Verrazano" cellars.

Postcard from Siena

When we leave the apartment in the morning, map in hand, there's no telling where we'll end up. The good news is that neither of us get too bent out of shape about losing our way - a good thing because we spend much of our time trying to figure out where we are and how we got there. The most common thing we say to each other is - NO! That's the wrong direction! It's amazing how difficult it is for us to navigate without the familiar grid.

This week, we visited Siena. We found our way to the bus station in time to get our scheduled bus. Once there however, we discovered that the resturant where we had booked lunch was 4 km out of town! They had told us it was across the street from the bus station; we assumed they meant the one where the bus from Florence stops. Wrong! After a ten minute discussion about what to do, we took a cab! The decision was justified because our lunch couldn't have been better: roasted pigeon on polenta and a saddle of rabbit served with local artichokes--delicious.

We really enjoyed wandering the streets of this medieval town. This is the place where the popular horse race the 'Palio' is run each summer. The colorful banners represent the flags of the 17 local neighborhoods or "contrata". People identify with these like a tribe. Each has a coat of arms, a flag, motto and a patron saint. In addition, specific crafts and guilds are associated with each area. The neighbourhoods mark their boundaries with the flag and many will only marry within their associated contrate. But the highlight each year is the Palio and what a race it is. The entire festival lasts for about a week and begins when the Piazza is filled with dirt and the stands are built for the spectators. Lots are drawn to see who will get to ride which horse and strategies and plots begin for how to win a race which runs for approximately 19 minutes! It's a day of pagentry, filled with excitement and the winner gets to proudly fly the winning banner all over their Contrate! We were here during the week of preparations one year and the level of excitement was electric. Our visit this year seemed much calmer.

So, back to our adventures. Heading for the bus we decided we had just enough time for a local Gelato--notice, we believed we were on the right track! It soon became clear that not only were we going in circles, but we were going in entirely the wrong direction. Our hope of catching the 6:10 was lost! Asking directions here didn't get us anywhere, because others like us, were just as perplexed by the twisty windy streets. In the end, we did manage to find the bus station, just in time for the next bus! The adventure continues--stay tuned.

A special meal in Florence

We have been in Florence for a week and I was waiting to write about something special. Well, the time has come--last night was special. Let me start by saying that while I know Tuscan food is supposed to be wonderful, our experience last time and this has been much more ordinary.

Starting with the bread. In NY, Tuscan defines good Italian bread. Our experience has been disappointing. They just don't have freshly made bread with a great crust. Most stores sell manufactured bread in plastic bags. Where they do have "freshly baked" bread it reminds me of the supermarket par-baked bread in NY. Also, the bread is made without salt (because 1,000 years ago, in a war with Pisa, salt was rationed and the Florentines decided to make their bread without salt as spite).

We've eaten mostly at little wine bars or at home. The typical fare is pasta and meat. A large pieces of grilled beef (up to a kilo) is a Tuscan specialty. In Europe that may be special, but to a New Yorker its pretty ordinary. The best meal we had until Sat. was Pizza at a Cafe near the Piazza Signoria. It was made with a thin crust and fresh tomatoes, Pecorino cheese and Boar Salami. It was fabulous. I could eat lunch there every day. From Chris: he's forgotten about the wonderful little wine bar just yards from our front door where the sausage, salami and pecorino are outstanding and provide just the kind of food that we love!

This Saturday night we finally went to a restaurant that was really special:

Cibreo

8 Via Andrea del Verrocchio

This is a small restaurant with a price-fixed menu. The waiter comes to your table to discuss it. There is no printed copy. Just the waiter who sits at your table and discusses what's available and your order. What makes this especially interesting is there is almost nothing on the menu you have ever heard of! They specialize in peasant dishes using unfamiliar ingredients. The picture is of my main course - stuffed chicken neck (like a sausage) and head with homemade mayonnaise. Chris had roasted pigeon stuffed with mustard fruits (in the background); both were delicious.

Our starters were a little more ordinary (we wanted to be sure we had something we could eat). Chris had Polenta with Asiago cheese and I had "pana pomadore" (pureed fresh tomatoes & bread with basil). We thought they worked well together.

The wine was a wonderful Chianti area 2004 Orano. I had never heard of it but they assured me Robert Parker had given it 98 points!

For dessert, we had a lemon tart that was delicious. They were upset we only ordered one dessert so they gave us an extra slice of flour-less chocolate cake. Coffee and a tisane followed--by the way, we've not had a bad cup of coffee here! A memorable meal, served by attentive, friendly staff--we would definitely go back and will try their smaller, less expensive cafe before we go home.

It is possible to see enough art!

It's possible to see enough art!

Florence was the birth of the Renaissance. Giotto, Da Vinci, Michelangelo, Dante....and all of them have their workdisplayed in museums and churches. Unlike chocolate and Gelato, it's possible to see enough religious art! Christina took this picture of me waiting for her at the Bargello sculpture museum. I had quit about half way through - missing "some of the best" stuff according to her!

By the way, do you like my new Italian "Borsalino" hat?

WHAT'S COOKING?

Shoping for a meal in a country where you can't speak the language can be challenging and sometimes mean that you go without! Try navigating a local grocery not being able to read the labels or no pictures to give you a clue to what's inside. You might know the contents to be milk, but, is it whole, skim, sweet, cream or some new drink that you've never seen? Even to a relatively experienced and confident cook, this can be an overwhelming experience. Over the years we've had some funny purchases! I expected that it would be no different when we went to Italy.

This year, our landlady in Florence had invited us to take part in a cooking lesson. Great, I thought, this would be a way to get some first hand advice on shopping from an expert! We were two couples working with a chef and his assistant to make a mouthwatering menu that included a pasta course of 'gnudi' (literaly translated as 'naked' pasta) drizzled with sage butter, a turkey rollade baked in 'white beer', served on baked rounds of thinly sliced potatoes alongside a zucchini pie (no pastry) and a tiramisu to finish of. YUM!

Our table companions included our landlady, a Contessa who was educated at Wellsley in the 40's, a couple from Alaska (they had NO news on Sarah), and the first woman supreme court justice from Australia. Quite a diverse group providing conversation that was as interesting as the food was good. However, shopping tips or advice never came into the conversation so trying to find coffee filters at the grocery the next day became an exercise in creative expression and art--me drawing a picture and using pantomine to explain what I needed! It was, however, easier then how I described 'oxtail' to the butcher in France last year!

Postcards from Florence

Here in Florence there's about as many gelotto shops as there are Korean Nail salons in NYC. Every block has at least one or two and while most of you wouldn't think that to be a problem, consider the size of your hips after three weeks of indulgence. Resistance is NOT my middle name so just imagine what it's like for me seeing beautifully displayed heaps of colourful, mouthwatering confection. And the flavours--from regular chocolate vanilla and pastashio, to tiramisu, ambrosia fantasy, or how about chocolate with pepper, AND that doesn't even begin to describe how they're served! It's been tough, but in my first week I've managed only two visits and one didn't really count because I called it 'lunch'!

The fact is, guide books and regulars give testamony to their 'favourites', each claiming theirs to be the best. My thought is, that the only way to resolve this is to conduct a test beginning immediately and keep you all posted about the results! By the way, it's a fact that geloto, has FEWER calories and a lower fat content then ice cream--what a blessing that is!
Stay tuned,
Christina

A brief interlude in Amsterdam is just about right

Notes on Amsterdam

Four days in Amsterdam is just about right. We would be glad to have another chance to break another trip here. The museums are great but the food is boring. The people are just about perfect; proud of their city, friendly, helpful and fluent in English.

From the "Red Light" district, to the flower market, to the "Coffee shops" (euphemism for marijuana joints--few actually sell coffee!) and museums, we really enjoyed being there. It's a welcoming city with friendly people. It feels a lot like home. As foodies, this wasn't an exceptional experience. The Dutch are really into potatoes pancakes and fish. We did enjoy the smoked eel and tasted the cousin of gin 'gienevre' a tasty aperitif.

The Dutch spend a huge amount of time and money managing 'water' (they are substantially below sea level). They are clearly disparaging of our efforts in New Orleans (we apparently told them it was too expensive to do what they suggested). One of the other most surprising and disconcerting things about Amsterdam are ubiquitous presence of bicycles. There are more bikes per capita here than anywhere else. There are actually more bicycles than cars - and they don't give way to pedestrians! Many apparent "sidewalks" are actually bike paths! They come up on you silently and expect you to get out of the way. It's easier for a pedestrian to stop and dodge than the rider (I am sympathetic given my experience in the Berkshires). Most of the bikes are the oldest and most basic ones that I've ever seen. No gears, no hand breaks, mostly black and rusted. Apparently, about a 1,000 bikes a day are stolen!. Coincidentally, about that many used bikes become available for sale at the flea market. There's a bike for anyone in any situation--we even saw a 'party bike' with over a dozen peddlers sitting around a main table structure, working in unison to stay in motion. Child seats (some with windshields and handle bars) can be in front or in back or in the form of a wheelbarrow to hold more then one child. The Dutch seem to use bicycles as extensions of themselves, learning to ride almost as soon as they can walk! One resident told us that he believes that the reason people ride is because, and these were his words, "Dutch people are basically 'cheap' and if there's a way to save money, well, then that's the choice they make. In a city which is incredibly hospitable to those 'in the saddle', it's the most economical way to go. It's also a quicker and healthier way to get about.

Our visit included time at the Rijks and Van Gogh museums where we lingered in front of some of our favorite Rembrandts and Van Goghs; and discovered some new names. Also on our list was the Anne Frank House--a devastating experience. She was such a vibrant young girl and only died one month before liberation. The museum has been kept very simple. You just tour the empty house and hear excerpts from her diary and interviews with survivors. It's hard to bear especially when you come to her room where she'd pasted postcards and movie star pictures to make the room brighter.

Concluding our time with a morning in the country seemed like a good idea. We hired a guide who took us to the small island village of Marken where the houses are so close on three sides that it seems impossible not to be intimately connected to your neighbour. Walking along a narrow lane, I accidentally brushed against a bell which brought an elderly gentleman to the door looking to see who the 'strangers' were. Chris made friends admiring his 'house sign' which had a verse she was able to translate using her German skills. Marken looks like a town where time stood still. Life seems quiet, garden plots are immaculate and women in town are known for their exceptionally clean windows! Driving back to town, we stopped at the site of the old style windmills which explained just how the water levels were controlled in the early days. Today electric turbines do the job, but the countryside is now dotted with the modern version which generates power for the city.

Confessions of an I-Phone addict.

Confessions of an I-Phone addict.

Hello, my name is Paul and I have a problem.

I've always been prone to trying new things: I get a new computer almost every year, I download the newest versions of favorite applications as soon as they're available (I haven't missed a new version of Quicken in 20 years!) and have seldom had a cell phone for more then a year. I 've tried every new phone and feature as they become available. Invariably they're a disappointment. High speed 3G? There's nothing to download and it eats up your battery. I had a 3G Nokia and it was so bad that it would die overnight if it wasn't plugged in. The internet interface was so clunky it took a minute to load before you could start to download. Then if you got a phone call you lost everything on the browser.

Cell phones are not accidentally bad. They're designed that way by telecom carriers who are schizophrenic about control. They want to advertise cool features but are afraid of losing control and force them to work through their proprietary networks and interfaces. They're designed to work for the carrier not the user. The phones generally work well to make phone calls or get messages; but stink for everything else. The problem with that is you don't need a $500 telephone (which they would like to sell you) to make phone calls. Microsoft colludes with this strategy by making the "smart phone" software clunky and focused on Windows. Blackberry's do a good job in the important, but relatively narrow, realm of email but that's all.

Apple broke the mold by forcing ATT to accept a newly designed phone that would be elegant in design and focused on usability. Everything is big and bright and easy to understand. Apple decided to sacrifice FEATURES to focus on usability. When you look up a phone number on the built-in directory it knows where you are and automatically brings up a map to show you where the address is and asks you if you would like to dial the number. Afterwards it will give you directions to get there from where you are. When you're looking at the internet it automatically re-sizes the page to highlight whatever item you tap on. If the phone rings when you're browsing it lets you answer the phone without losing what you're working on. You can also browse the internet or look up a contact without disconnecting your caller. There's message on the screen reminding you to go back to the call. As great as the phone is, it was still pretty limited in it's uses. After a while, you really don't need to look up addresses all that often or check weather or stock prices.

About a month ago Apple did it again. They introduced the Applications Store that allows you to download I-Phone-specific applications directly on your phone. Within a month there were at least 2,000 applications for the phone - almost all of them free or a dollar; almost none over $10.00. Many of them are devoted to a very small dedicated audience or are really stupid - but some are so elegant and useful it's amazing.

Some of my favorites:

Now Playing - Knows every theater near where you are and what's playing there. You can go either from the theater to the movie to the showtime or from the movie to where it is playing. Includes reviews from two sources. You can array all the movies playing in the area by rating and then find where it's playing. It even has the movie details and trailers. ALL FOR FREE!

Shopping List Manager - One of Chris' favorites. Allows you to maintain multiple shopping lists (Otis and NY!). Includes a dictionary of standard items sorted by store sections that you can add to. It also allows you to email a shopping list to your husband's phone while he's in the store.

MLB At Bat - Has all the baseball games for a three day period. For games underway it shows you the box-score, who's on base and and the status of the at-bat by pitch. Also has video clips of highlights of ongoing games. It ties into MLB and has all the key statistics by team and player. This was expensive at $5. There's nothing free from MLB.

Bloomberg - A great financial site. It has Financial headlines and news stories; On-line market info including Stocks, Commodities, Bonds and Currencies; stock prices (delayed) including charts and summary info. A real powerhouse of financial info when we're travelling. It's also free.
Weather - Current weather and forecasts for a number of locations. Let's us keep track of Toronto (mother), San Francisco (Scott), NY, Otis and Paris. All the essentials. Also free.

Games -A whole slew of games for any taste. Most free or a dollar.

Does it sound like I'm hooked??? You bet. Chris complains that I would be in withdrawal without my phone--she's right! At a recent dinner in Toronto, three I-phone users enthusiastically shared their 'favorite' features! It quickly became clear we were all equally 'in love' with this new technology. Someone pointed out that right there at the table we had our own little 'i-phone' addiction support group! Not a bad idea.

Lucinda Holdforth - True Pleasures

Book description -

The latest from acclaimed Canadian writer Richards (Nights Below Station Street; Mercy Among the Children) offers an uneven but beautifully mournful portrait of life in the unforgiving landscape of postwar New Brunswick. Mary Jameson, the widow of a lumber magnate, hopes to stymie the prophecy she receives from a fortune-teller—that her oldest son will be powerful and her younger son will bring glory upon the family, but they will be the end of the family. When Will Jameson, the brash older brother, suffers a fatal logging accident, and Owen, the intellectual younger son, returns a wounded hero from WWII, it seems the prophecy may come true. Owen assumes leadership of the family business, but faced with stiff competition, he sends men to fell timber deep in hazardous terrain. Logging troubles, combined with Owen's military service with Reggie Glidden, Will's best friend, and a romantic entanglement with Reggie's wife, touches off a devastating sequence of events. The book's most resonant moments spring from Richards's account of Jameson's loggers. Though undercut in places by a thick colloquialism, Richards's work at its best approaches the poetic nuances of Greek tragedy.

David Adams Richards - The Friends of Meagher Fortune

Book description -

The latest from acclaimed Canadian writer Richards (Nights Below Station Street; Mercy Among the Children) offers an uneven but beautifully mournful portrait of life in the unforgiving landscape of postwar New Brunswick. Mary Jameson, the widow of a lumber magnate, hopes to stymie the prophecy she receives from a fortune-teller—that her oldest son will be powerful and her younger son will bring glory upon the family, but they will be the end of the family. When Will Jameson, the brash older brother, suffers a fatal logging accident, and Owen, the intellectual younger son, returns a wounded hero from WWII, it seems the prophecy may come true. Owen assumes leadership of the family business, but faced with stiff competition, he sends men to fell timber deep in hazardous terrain. Logging troubles, combined with Owen's military service with Reggie Glidden, Will's best friend, and a romantic entanglement with Reggie's wife, touches off a devastating sequence of events. The book's most resonant moments spring from Richards's account of Jameson's loggers. Though undercut in places by a thick colloquialism, Richards's work at its best approaches the poetic nuances of Greek tragedy

Tom Perotta - The Abstinence Teacher

Book description -

Campbell Scott's soft but edgy voice, earnest but with a sarcastic undertone, is a supremely apt fit for Perrotta's skewering of modern society. He is equally convincingly whether playing Ruth, a divorced mother and sex-education teacher whose community is becoming increasingly religious, to her transparent disgust, or Tim, Ruth's daughter's soccer coach and a born-again Christian who is dismayed to find himself slipping back to his old drug addict habits. Scott's tone shifts just slightly to distinguish between the deadpan humor of Ruth's gay friend Randall and the pious lack of humor of an abstinence consultant brought in to reform Ruth. The evenness of Scott's voice is a reminder of how similar everyone is on a certain basic level, and it makes for a greater impact when he does raise the volume or change his accent. Though Ruth and Tim oppose each other over religion, their love lives are both damaged, and Scott's quiet, intimate delivery brings out the wounded yet stubbornly hopeful side of both of them. This is an effective, smart and sharp production.